A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Leaving the Meh Ping, we journeyed nearly due north, thus avoiding a
long bend of the river. A mile from our crossing of the Meh Lim, a low
hill called Loi Chong Teng, about two and a half miles long, and
surmounted near its southern end by a pretty pagoda, cropped up from the
plain a mile to the west. Here we caught a glimpse of the summer palace
of the Zimmé chief, which lay about 3½ miles to the north-east, near the
village of Wung Muang.
The foot of the hill was fringed by a line of villages embedded in
beautiful groves of fruit-trees. After passing the north end of the
hill, which drew in towards our path, we halted for breakfast at the
village of Nam Lin, situated 11½ miles from Zimmé. The spurs from the
main spur which separates the Meh Peun from the Meh Ping jutted into the
plain four miles to the west of the village, and the plateau-topped low
range to the east lay four miles distant, reducing the width of the
Zimmé plain to about seven or eight miles at this spot, from whence it
gradually decreases to the defile.
On our way to the village we halted for a few minutes to gain
information about the valley of the Meh Lim, and, accompanied by Dr
M‘Gilvary, I ascended the steps of a substantial-looking house, and
crossing the verandah, entered the reception-hall. Here we were welcomed
by an old lady, her daughter, and four granddaughters, the last of
various ages from fourteen to twenty-four. All were evidently in gala
array, their hair neatly dressed and decked with flowers, jewels on
their fingers and in the cylinders in the lobes of their ears, bracelets
on their wrists, and handsome gold chains round some of their necks, but
without jackets, or any other covering from the waist upwards, excepting
a handkerchief round the old lady’s top-knot.
In the Lao provinces of Siam, which lie in the basin of the Meh Kong to
the south of Luang Prabang, it is the rule amongst the Shans that a
woman whose husband is absent must not offer hospitality. In all cases
before hospitality is offered, the master of the house must first
worship the manes by lighting taper candles, and incense, and offering
prayers, the stranger waiting until the ceremony is finished. The Ping
Shans are not so strict, and no remonstrances were made at our
unexpected entrance. The young ladies, at a hint from their grandmother,
at once brought clean mats and three-cornered pillows to make us
comfortable, and their mamma offered us her silver betel-box, which
contained all the necessaries for a quid, which, I need not say, we
thankfully declined.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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