A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Chow Kam Doang—or, to give him his full title, Chow Pee Luang Kam
Doang—is the guardian spirit of the district: buffaloes and pigs are
yearly sacrificed to him. It is strange to find these genii, who, like
the Semitic gods, have wives and children, worshipped by the same people
who sacrifice to the Turanian spirits, who have neither wives nor
children, are neither male nor female, know not law and kindness, and
attend not to prayer and supplication, but have to be humoured like
fretful children to keep them in a good temper. Indo-China and China
appear to have been the meeting-place of religions, and the people have
shown not the slightest objection to try one after the other in case of
ill health and distress. Nearly every superstition that has ever
existed, and traces of nearly every religion, are to be found in the
country.
We continued through the rice-plain to Wat Lum Peun at 16¼ miles, where
we intended to halt for the night, but, finding it out of repair, we
left the route, and turning eastward for a mile and a half, camped for
the night, pitching our tent on the bank of the Meh Ping, in which we
enjoyed a good bath.
In unloading my elephant, the driver carelessly threw my large aneroid
barometer, with which I took intermediate heights betwixt my
boiling-point stations, to Moung Loogalay, instead of carefully handing
it down, as had always previously been done. Loogalay failed to catch
it, and it came to grief, throwing me back upon a smaller aneroid which
I had frequently tested and found less reliable, and making me doubtful
of the succeeding aneroid observations.
Next morning Dr M‘Gilvary’s elephant showed temper when it was being
mounted, starting off suddenly, and nearly throwing him when he was
half-way up the rope-ladder. He therefore selected another animal. At
the place where we subsequently halted for breakfast it again got in a
passion whilst being bathed by the mahout, and, shrieking loudly,
rushed, with him luckily still on its back, into the forest, and it was
some time before it was brought under control. When at length we got
off, I walked back to the Wat to recommence the survey, whilst my
companions made a short cut, striking the route farther north. I left
the rice-plain at the Wat, and entered the small-tree forest. This
stunted forest was evidently the outcome of a few years, as the land
bore signs of being formerly under rice, little ridges dividing it into
fields, and small irrigating-canals intersected the path.
Near the village of Long Ka-mee-lek I noticed a _ta-lay-ow_ fixed upon a
tree, and under it a written order stating that as the elephants of the
Zimmé chief were grazing in that direction, no other elephants or oxen
were to pass that way. On asking the elephant-drivers the reason of the
order, they said that foot-and-mouth disease was raging amongst the
cattle in the country, and the order was to prevent the elephants of the
chief from incurring infection.
[Illustration:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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