A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
We halted for the night at Pang Pau, on the banks of the Meh Poi, which
lies 2357 feet above the sea. This stream rises a few miles off to the
north-west, not far from the gap through which the Huay Sai passes from
Muang Hang. The Huay Sai, flowing to the Meh Ping, which empties into
the Gulf of Siam, and the Meh Hang, which enters the Salween, flowing
into the Indian Ocean, both rise in the same plain, which is only
separated from the Meh Fang, which drains into the Cambodia river,
flowing into the China Siam by the range we were about to cross.
Next morning, after crossing the Meh Poi, we ascended a spur to the Pa
Too Din (or Earthen Gate), the pass over Loi Kyoo Pa Săng. During the
ascent it was raining heavily. The crest of the pass is 58¾ miles from
Zimmé, and 2645 feet above the sea; and the hill is composed of a soft
sandstone.
Descending the slope for a quarter of a mile, we reached the bottom of
the valley, which is said to be merely a long pocket in the hills, its
drainage passing in underground passages beneath them. From the bottom
we immediately commenced to ascend to the Pa Too Pa (or Stone Gate),
which we reached after a toilsome climb of just one hour, the horizontal
distance being barely half a mile. The slope was formed of hard blocks
of traprock, with an outcrop of non-crystalline metamorphic rock. The
path up the ravine was so steep and slippery in places that it seemed
impossible for any animal less agile than a man to ascend it. Our
elephants proceeded slowly but surely, keeping, like links in a chain,
so close together, that one felt if one should slip he would carry the
others with him. The path is not more than 18 inches broad, and is
strewn with great rocks. It is said to be the most difficult pass in the
country. Its crest lies 59½ miles from Zimmé, and 2916 feet above the
sea. Mr Archer gives the altitude as 2750 feet above the sea; and Mr
Gould, as 1600 feet above Zimmé. There may be a slight error in my
height on account of atmospheric disturbance and a dense mist.
Not far from the head of the pass, on the northern side, are two natural
wells called Hoo Low, of great depth—one 6 feet and the other 10 feet in
diameter. A pebble took four seconds in reaching the bottom. Two miles
of easy descent among limestone hills brought us to the plain of Nong
Vee-a, bounded on the north-west by a fine precipitous hill of mural
limestone, called Loi Tum Tap Tow, rising about 1200 feet above the
plain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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