A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Four miles from the summit of the pass, two great depressions in the
ground, called _Boo-arks_, occur,—one 250 feet in diameter and 25 feet
deep; and the other, 300 feet long, 250 feet broad, and 8 feet deep.
These have evidently been caused by the subsidence of the ground into
underlying caverns in the limestone formation. Near these we left the
path and crossed the plain for about half a mile to visit the sacred
cave of Tum Tap Tow, which is situated not far from the north end of the
hill. It was in this cave, according to M‘Leod, “where the last Buddh
(Gaudama) is said to have rested after a surfeit of pork which caused
his death.” Further particulars of this legend accounting for the name
of the cave were related to us, whereby it appears that, on hearing of
Gaudama’s death, a number of his disciples shut themselves in this cave,
and contemplated his perfections so intently as to become unconscious of
the pangs and cravings of hunger, and thus also attained Neiban
(Nirvana)—the state of forgetfulness and perfect rest.
On dismounting at the foot of the hill, we camped for breakfast, and
then started on foot to the cave amidst a heavy shower of rain. Before
we had proceeded 50 feet, we found that we should have to wade nearly up
to our waists in the icy-cold water flowing out of the face of the hill,
and therefore returned to rearrange our toilets. I put on a Burmese Shan
costume, topped by a waterproof coat; Mr Martin wore a flannel shirt
under a coat, and a Siamese _panoung_ or petticoat; whilst Dr M‘Gilvary
draped himself in a gossamer waterproof, and carried a pair of
sleeping-drawers to put on when he reached the cave. None of us wore
shoes or stockings, and the sharp fragments of limestone in the path
made us walk very gingerly.
After leaving the brook, we scrambled up a slope of shattered limestone
and great blocks that had tumbled down from the cliff until the path lay
up the face of the precipice, when it became so difficult as to make me
rather dread the return journey. On reaching the entrance, we found it
ornamented with stuccoed figures of spirits, having bird bodies, and
elephant tusks and trunk in lieu of a beak.
Inside was a lofty cavern lighted by a natural skylight. On a raised
platform in the cave was a great reclining image of Buddha, some 30 feet
long, and around it a number of figures representing his disciples.
Numerous small wooden and stone images of Buddha had been placed by
pious pilgrims about the platform. Pillows, mattresses, robes, yellow
drapery, flags, water-bottles, rice-bowls, fans, dolls, images of
temples, dolls’ houses for the spirits, and all sorts of trumpery, were
lying together, with fresh and faded flowers that had been offered to
the images, and were strewn in front of them. A steep ladder led up to
niches near the roof of the cave, in which other images were enshrined.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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