A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
My companions, who were full of ardour, determined to explore the inner
recesses of the cave, and accordingly lighted their torches and
proceeded farther into the bowels of the earth, whilst I enjoyed a quiet
smoke amongst the gods. Down they went, creeping through narrow low
passages, over rocks, and along ledges, with chasms and pits lining
their path as the cave expanded, bottomless as far as they could judge
by the faint light of their torches, but really not more than 20 or 30
feet deep, until they could get no farther, and had to return, having
proceeded about an eighth of a mile.
Two deer sprang up from the long grass close to us when we were
returning to the camp, where we were glad to change our clothing and
have a good rub down after our wade through the icy water. Before we had
finished, the rain again came down in torrents, and we had to climb into
our howdahs to complete our toilets.
The _Boo-arks_ mark the western edge of the great plain through which
the Meh Fang runs on its way to join the Meh Khoke, which passes Kiang
Hai, and enters the Meh Kong, or Cambodia river, below Kiang Hsen. Two
miles to the north-east of the _Boo-arks_ we reached the Meh Fang, and
camped for the night. The river at our camp was 30 feet wide and 6 feet
deep, with 1½ foot of water. Our crossing was 65½ miles from Zimmé, and
1747 feet above the sea. Much of the plain, as well as the low plateaux
fringing it, are covered with teak-forest, and many of the trees are of
great girth. A small deer sprang up from the long grass nearly at my
elephant’s feet as I approached the camp.
Here we passed the most unpleasant night we had yet spent, as we were
troubled with rain, heat, and mosquitoes. The elephant-drivers, being
piqued with my Madras boys ordering them about, chucked their clothes
and bedding into a puddle. The boys dawdled as usual, instead of at once
erecting their leafy shelter for the night, and they and their bedding
got thoroughly drenched, and we had to make arrangements for their
comfort in our tent. To increase our misfortunes, our Shan followers had
appropriated our fowls on the sly, and we had to be satisfied with
tinned soups and meats. The first leeches we had seen on the journey
were found on our ankles when we took off our boots.
Next morning we continued our march down the plain, passing some brick
ruins and a _Viang Hau_, or Chinese fort. A mile beyond the fort we
reached Ban Meh Kih, where the road to Zimmé _viâ_ Viang Pow and Muang
Ken joins the route. The village, the first that we had seen since
leaving Muang Ngai, contained only sixteen houses. At another village we
were told that game was very plentiful. Wild cattle, larger than
buffaloes, come in droves from the hills to graze in the plain, and
rhinoceros and elephant roam about the hills. Pigs were, however, the
greatest pest of the country, as they rooted up the crops.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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