A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
“A settlement of this description entails considerable labour, and it is
curious to note from what a distant source Muang Fang draws its
labour-supply. At the time of my visit (early in 1887) to the province,
most of the hard work of clearing the jungle was done by a band of
several hundred hired labourers. These men belong to a people called by
the Laos, Thai Yai, or Thai Lueng (Chinese Shans from the Chinese Shan
States lying to the east of Bhamo), the inhabitants of the country
tributary to China lying north of the (Burmese) Shan States, close to
Yunnan and Burmah. They had followed the course of the Salween as far as
Mehongson (Muang Houngson on the Meh Pai), the western frontier province
of Chiengmai, and thence had come across country to Muang Fang. Some of
them return to their country with only a year’s earnings, but they are
soon replaced by fresh arrivals. They are said to be better and hardier
labourers than either the Ngios or Laos, and they will probably be
employed with advantage in the construction of public works in Burmah.”
Returning to my conversation with the Chow, he said that the city was
sacked by the Burmese general Soo Too after a siege of three years and
three months—the people escaping to Zimmé. At that time Phya Pim-ma-san
was the Chow Luang (governing chief), and his wife was named Nang Lo
Cha. The night the city was taken, the governor climbed up a tree,
hoping to escape detection; but being espied, was made prisoner, and
fastened up with his wife and two favourite officers. When morning came
they were all missing, and were found drowned in a well which is still
pointed out. This seems to be an adaptation of the story of the Mongol
Prince of Yunnan, who, when the army sent by Hungwu, the first Emperor
of the Ming Dynasty, in A.D. 1381 captured Yunnan-Fu, with his family
and minister drowned themselves in the neighbouring lake.
He told me, with reference to the cost of carriage, that the charge for
bringing each bucket (25 lb.) of rice from Viang Pow to Muang Fang—a
distance of 40 miles—varied between 8 annas in the dry season and 10
annas in the rainy season, which gives an average of 1¼ rupee a ton per
mile, or forty times as much as is charged for conveyance by rail in
Burmah.
As my companions wished to have a hunt after big game, the Chow sent for
a celebrated hunter called Mau Sau, or Dr Tiger. Whilst awaiting his
arrival, Mr Martin noticed that the man who had been sent as a guide
with us from Bau Meh Soon, carried a knife with a handsomely carved
ivory handle. On asking what he would sell it for, the man said that he
had made it himself, and that Mr Martin might have it for 5 salungs (1
rupee and 12 annas). On Mr Martin drawing out several from his pocket,
the man reflected for a while, and then remarked that the Nai was rich,
and yet had only given him 5 salungs; but when Mr Martin remarked he had
given him all he had bargained for, he had nothing to say, and took his
departure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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