A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The Meh Fang, which we crossed after breakfast, was 60 feet wide and 6
feet deep, with 1 foot of water. Its bed is composed of pebbles coming
from sandstone, slate, granite, and quartz formations. The crossing was
61½ miles from Zimmé, and 1954 feet above sea-level. A little farther on
we crossed a bend in the river in which a number of men and women were
fishing, who, scared at our appearance, scuttled away as fast as they
could—the women screaming with terror at the sight of my Madras
servants. These boys were always amused at the horror and panic their
black faces inspired in the women.
After crossing the bend we left the river, and for the next mile
gradually ascended to the summit of the water-parting that separates the
affluents of the Meh Fang, which flows into the Meh Kong, from those of
the Meh Pam, which joins the Meh Ping below Muang Ngai. The summit of
this pass is 59¼ miles from Zimmé, and only 2158 feet above the sea. A
railway from Zimmé to Muang Fang, and thence to Kiang Hsen, would
certainly be aligned up the valley of the Meh Pam, and over this pass
into the basin of the Meh Fang. The rise from the latter river to the
crest of the pass is only 204 feet.
In ascending the pass I noticed many palms, resembling small cocoa-nut
trees, and seeing that they were in blossom, asked a man to get me some
of the flowers, when he refused flatly, saying, “Whoever touched them
would certainly suffer from the itch.” The wood of this palm is used in
the construction of weaving-looms. The jungle was very dense, with
aroids, ferns, and wild plantains scattered through the undergrowth.
There are many plants in the jungle that one has to be chary in
handling. Some blister the hand, while others are covered with prongs
like fish-hooks. When riding, the eyes have to be kept constantly on the
look-out, or your head-covering will be carried away and your coat torn
into ribbons by these snares for the unwary.
The Shan States afford constant surprises, and one was before us as we
looked to the west in descending the pass. Although we had crossed the
water-parting, the high range of mountains which we had passed over on
our former journey at the Pa Too Pa was still to our right, and we were
now at the head of a valley worn out of the plateau formation at the
foot of its slope. The range is here called Loi Pa Chan, and is
limestone overlying sandstone, the latter rock appearing in the stream
that drains the valley. The left side of the valley, from its easy
slope, seemed especially made for railway purposes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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