A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
At 56 miles, Loi Pa Chan, which for the last 3¼ miles had been frowning
down upon us, suddenly ended, and a mile farther we crossed the stream
that drains the valley we had been traversing, having fallen only 288
feet in our easy descent from the crest of the pass. We shortly
afterwards reached a low spur from the eastern hills, and crossed it to
the Huay Pong Pow. We then followed that stream to Pang Pong Pow, and
halted for the night. The trunk of a banian-tree not far from the camp
was 8 feet in diameter, or more than 25 feet in girth.
The ground near the camp is boggy, with a strong smell of sulphur, the
earth greasy and slimy, the strata a black shaly rock. The place is a
deer-lick, and the caravans of cattle which passed through the camp
early the next morning, taking rice to Muang Fang, so enjoyed licking
the puddles that they could hardly be driven from the place. These pools
are said formerly to have been a great rendezvous for wild cattle and
other animals. Many trees in the neighbourhood of the camp were covered
with the beautiful blossoms of the Rangoon creeper, and I noticed the
single camellia of Burmah growing wild among the grass.
On halting for the night, we were so tired and weary that we at once
fell upon sardines and cold rice, without waiting for dinner to be
cooked, having had a very poor breakfast. When dinner was at length
served, I was in bed, and my companions on their way there. The edge was
off our appetites; sleep was dulling our senses,—so the boys enjoyed the
dinner, while we enjoyed repose.
In the morning Mr Martin had a touch of the fever from which he had
previously suffered. Dr M‘Gilvary had long been endeavouring to ward off
recurring visits of the same enemy by taking quinine in teaspoonfuls.
The Shan servants accompanying the missionaries, as well as my men,
likewise had it at times, and I alone remained impregnable. I was very
thankful for my immunity from it, as otherwise I could not have stood
the constant strain upon my attention.
Leaving the camp, we crossed a spur to the Huay Pun, and proceeded for a
mile up its course, rising 339 feet, to the crest of the pass over the
range which links on the Pa-Yat Pa-Yai plateau to the eastern hills.
This range of hills separates the waters flowing into the Meh Pam from
those flowing into the Meh Ngat. The crest of the pass lies 51 miles
from Zimmé, and 2277 feet above the sea.
Whilst sitting on a stone taking the height with the boiling-point
thermometer, a snake, called Shin Byee in Burmah, wriggled from under
it. The men said the bite of the snake was deadly, and that it possessed
two heads, one where its tail should be. On using my magnifying-glass I
proved to them that this was a delusion, though the shape and marks on
the flat end to the tail gave some reason for the general belief. A
number of emigrants passed us here on their way to Muang Fang; the
women, like good housewives, were carrying their spinning-wheels on
their backs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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