A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Ten minutes after restarting we reached the summit of Loi Tone Wye, or
Loi Tong Wai, situated 118 miles from Hlineboay and 3885 feet above the
sea. Great fern-trees, 50 feet in height, the highest I have ever seen
or heard of, adorned the crest of the hill. Portow brought me a handful
of wild white raspberries he had just picked for me to eat. Before
reaching the summit we noticed a Lawa village nestling on a hill-slope
to the north of us.
On the narrow plateau forming the summit of the hill, we found a large
encampment of Shans with many laden cattle. Some of the men had opened
their packs and were bartering their merchandise with a number of Karens
who had come from the neighbouring villages. Startled by our sudden
appearance, most likely never having seen a white-face before, the
latter took to their heels, fleeing as if the devil was after them, and
did not venture from their hidingplaces until after our breakfast, when
we were preparing to resume our march. Then they came, as shy and
inquisitive as cattle, and had a good look at us from a respectful
distance.
[Illustration:
_Meh Laik valley and gorge at 1.3 P.M. 15th February._
]
From Loi Tong Wai we had a magnificent view of the hills in all
directions. The great plateau of Bau, 15 miles to the east, and about
the same level as the ground we were standing on, was clearly outlined
against the sky; and the great trough of the wave between it and us was
filled with a multitude of great spurs, crested with fine timber and
divided from each other by steep-sided narrow valleys.
To the south-west, 10 miles distant, was the gorge where the Meh Laik
passes through Loi Kom Ngam on its way to the Meh Nium; beyond was a sea
of hills stretching as far as the eye could reach to the high peak lying
to the south-east of our pass over the Karroway Toung. The cliff-faced
gap through which the river rushes, tumbling hundreds of feet at a time,
is impassable even to the sure-footed Karens. In the 24 miles’ course of
the stream between our two crossings its bed falls 2049 feet. The
greater part of this drop is said to occur in this short gorge, which
must be one of the wildest and grandest scenes in the world.
If the railway from Maulmain is carried up the valley of the Meh Laik,
gradually rising along the hill-spurs, a gallery cut in the face of the
gorge would enable the line to proceed towards Zimmé without passing,
_viâ_ Maing Loongyee, over the hills we have been crossing since we left
the city. A better path, however, most likely exists up one of the
valleys to the north of Loi Pwe, which would cross the Zimmé hills,
descending by the valley of the Meh Sai, which lies between Loi Kom and
the Bau plateau.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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