Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
The top of another pylon; the slender peak of an obelisk; a colonnade of
giant pillars half-buried in the soil; the white houses of the English,
American and Prussian consuls, each with its flagstaff and ensign; a
steep slope of sandy shore; a background of mud walls and pigeon-towers;
a foreground of native boats and gayly painted dahabeeyahs lying at
anchor--such, as we sweep by, is our first panoramic view of this famous
village. A group of turbaned officials sitting in the shade of an arched
doorway rise and salute us as we pass. The assembled dahabeeyahs dozing
with folded sails, like sea-birds asleep, are roused to spasmodic
activity. Flags are lowered; guns are fired; all Luxor is startled from
its midday siesta. Then, before the smoke has had time to clear off, up
comes the Bagstones in gallant form; whereupon the dahabeeyahs blaze
away again as before.
And now there is a rush of donkeys and donkey boys, beggars, guides and
antiquity-dealers, to the shore--the children screaming for backshîsh;
the dealers exhibiting strings of imitation scarabs; the donkey boys
vociferating the names and praises of their beasts; all alike regarding
us as their lawful prey.
“Hi, lady! Yankee-Doodle donkey; try Yankee Doodle!” cries one.
“Far-away Moses!” yells another. “Good donkey--fast donkey--best donkey
in Luxor!”
“This Prince of Wales donkey!” shouts a third, hauling forward a
decrepit little weak-kneed, moth-eaten looking animal, about as good to
ride upon as a towel-horse. “First-rate donkey! splendid donkey! God
save the queen! Hurrah!”
But neither donkeys nor scarabs are of any importance in our eyes just
now, compared with the letters we hope to find awaiting us on shore. No
sooner, therefore, are the boats made fast than we are all off, some to
the British consulate and some to the poste restante, from both of which
we return rich and happy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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