Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
Meanwhile we propose to spend only twenty-four hours in Luxor. We were
to ride round Karnek this first afternoon; to cross to Medinet Habu and
the Ramesseum[37] to-morrow morning; and to sail again as soon after
midday as possible. We hope to get a general idea of the topography of
Thebes, and to carry away a superficial impression of the architectural
style of the Pharaohs. It would be but a glimpse; yet that glimpse was
essential. For Thebes represents the great central period of Egyptian
art. The earlier styles lead up to that point; the later depart from it;
and neither the earlier nor the later are intelligible without it. At
the same time, however, travelers bound for the second cataract do well
to put off everything like a detailed study of Thebes till the time of
coming back. For the present, a rapid survey of the three principal
group of ruins is enough. It supplies the necessary link. It helps one
to a right understanding of Edfu, of Philæ, of Abu Simbel. In a word, it
enables one to put things in their right places; and this, after all,
is a mental process which every traveler must perform for himself.
Thebes, I need scarcely say, was built, like London, on both sides of
the river. Its original extent must have been very great; but its public
buildings, its quays, its thousands of private dwellings, are gone and
have left few traces. The secular city, which was built of crude brick,
is represented by a few insignificant mounds; while of the sacred
edifice, five large groups of limestone ruins--three on the western bank
and two on the eastern, together with the remains of several small
temples and a vast multitude of tombs--are all that remain in permanent
evidence of its ancient splendor. Luxor is a modern Arab village,
occupying the site of one of the oldest of these five ruins. It stands
on the eastern bank, close against the river, about two miles south of
Karnak and nearly opposite the famous sitting colossi of the western
plain. On the opposite bank lie Gournah, the Ramesseum, and Medinet
Habu. A glance at the map will do more than pages of explanation to show
the relative position of these ruins. The Temple of Gournah, it will be
seen, is almost _vis-à-vis_ of Karnak. The Ramesseum faces about
half-way between Karnak and Luxor. Medinet Habu is placed farther to the
south than any building on the eastern side of the river. Behind these
three western groups, reaching far and wide along the edge of the Libyan
range, lies the great Theban Necropolis; while farther back still, in
the radiating valleys on the other side of the mountains, are found the
tombs of the kings. The distance between Karnak and Luxor is a little
less than two miles; while from Medinet Habu to the Temple of Gournah
may be roughly guessed at something under four. We have here, therefore,
some indication of the extent, though not of the limits, of the ancient
city.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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