Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
And now we look around for the next hall--and look in vain. The doorway
which should lead to it is walled up. The portico was excavated by
Mohammed Ali in 1842; not in any spirit of antiquarian zeal, but in
order to provide a safe underground magazine for gunpowder. Up to that
time, as may be seen by one of the illustrations to Wilkinson’s “Thebes
and General View of Egypt,” the interior was choked to within a few feet
of the capitals of the columns, and used as a cotton-store. Of the rest
of the building nothing is known; nothing is visible. It is as large,
probably, as Denderah or Edfû, and in as perfect preservation. So, at
least, says local tradition; but not even local tradition can point out
to what extent it underlies the foundations of the modern houses that
swarm above its roof. An inscription first observed by Champollion
states that the sanctuary was built by Thothmes III. Is that antique
sanctuary still there? Has the temple grown step by step under the hands
of successive kings, as at Luxor? Or has it been re-edified _ab ovo_, as
at Denderah? These are “puzzling questions,” only to be resolved by the
demolition of a quarter of the town. Meanwhile what treasures of
sculptured history, what pictured chambers, what buried bronzes and
statues may here await the pick of the excavator!
All next day, while the men were baking, the writer sat in a corner of
the outer passage and sketched the portico of the temple. The sun rose
upon the one horizon and set upon the other before that drawing was
finished; yet for scarcely more than one hour did it light up the front
of the temple. At about half-past nine A.M. it first caught the stone
fillet at the angle. Then, one by one, each massy capital became
outlined with a thin streak of gold. As this streak widened the cornice
took fire, and presently the whole stood out in light against the sky.
Slowly then, but quite perceptibly, the sun traveled across the narrow
space overhead; the shadows became vertical; the light changed sides;
and by ten o’clock there was shade for the remainder of the day. Toward
noon, however, the sun being then at its highest and the air transfused
with light, the inner columns, swallowed up till now in darkness, became
illuminated with a wonderful reflected light, and glowed from out the
gloom like pillars of fire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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