Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
Our Nubian auxiliaries struck work after this. Fate, they said, was
adverse; so they went home, leaving us moored for the night in the pool
at the top of the first rapid. The sheik promised, however, that his
people should begin work next morning at dawn, and get us through before
sunset. Next morning came, however, and not a man appeared upon the
scene. At about midday they began dropping in, a few at a time; hung
about in a languid, lazy way for a couple of hours or so; moved us into
a better position for attacking the next rapid; and then melted away
mysteriously by twos and threes among the rocks, and were no more seen.
We now felt that our time and money were being recklessly squandered,
and we resolved to bear it no longer. Our painter therefore undertook to
remonstrate with the sheik, and to convince him of the error of his
ways. The sheik listened; smoked; shook his head; replied that in the
cataract, as elsewhere, there were lucky and unlucky days, days when men
felt inclined to work, and days when they felt disinclined. To-day as it
happened, they felt disinclined. Being reminded that it was unreasonable
to keep us three days going up five miles of river, and that there was a
governor at Assûan to whom we should appeal to-morrow unless the work
went on in earnest, he smiled, shrugged his shoulders, and muttered
something about “destiny.”
Now the painter, being of a practical turn, had compiled for himself a
little vocabulary of choice Arabic maledictions, which he carried in his
note-book for reference when needed. Having no faith in its possible
usefulness, we were amused by the industry with which he was constantly
adding to this collection. We looked upon it, in fact, as a harmless
pleasantry--just as we looked upon his pocket-revolver, which was never
loaded; or his brand-new fowling-piece, which he was never known to
fire.
But the sheik of the cataract had gone too far. The fatuity of that
smile would have exasperated the meekest of men; and our painter was not
the meekest of men. So he whipped out his pocket-book, ran his finger
down the line, and delivered an appropriate quotation. His accent may
not have been faultless; but there could be no mistake as to the energy
of his style or the vigor of his language. The effect of both was
instantaneous. The sheik sprang to his feet as if he had been
shot--turned pale with rage under his black skin--vowed the Philæ might
stay where she was till doomsday, for aught that he or his men would do
to help her a foot farther--bounded into his own ricketty sandal and
rowed away, leaving us to our fate.
We stood aghast. It was all over with us. We should never see Abou
Simbel now--never write our names on the Rock of Aboosîr, nor slake our
thirst at the waters of the second cataract. What was to be done? Must
the sheik be defied, or propitiated? Should we appeal to the governor,
or should we immolate the painter? The majority were for immolating the
painter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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