Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
For the Copts who choked the colonnades and court-yards with their
hovels seized also on the temples. Some they pulled down for building
material; others they appropriated. We can never know how much they
destroyed; but two large convents on the eastern bank a little higher up
the river, and a small basilica at the north end of the island, would
seem to have been built with the magnificent masonry of the southern
quay, as well as with blocks taken from a structure which once occupied
the south-eastern corner of the great colonnade. As for this beautiful
painted portico, they turned it into a chapel. A little rough-hewn niche
in the east wall, and an overturned credence-table fashioned from a
single block of limestone, mark the site of the chancel. The Arabs,
taking this last for a gravestone, have pulled it up, according to their
usual practice, in search of treasure buried with the dead. On the front
of the credence-table,[58] and over the niche which some unskilled but
pious hand has decorated with rude Byzantine carvings, the Greek cross
is again conspicuous.
The religious history of Philæ is so curious that it is a pity it should
not find an historian. It shared with Abydos and some other places the
reputation of being the burial-place of Osiris. It was called the “Holy
Island.” Its very soil was sacred. None might land upon its shores, or
even approach them too nearly, without permission. To obtain that
permission and perform the pilgrimage to the tomb of the god, was to the
pious Egyptian what the Mecca pilgrimage is to the pious Mussulman of
to-day. The most solemn oath to which he could give utterance was “By
him who sleeps in Philæ.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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