Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
Forgers, diggers and dealers play, meanwhile, into one another’s hands
and drive a roaring trade. Your dahabeeyah, as I have just shown, is
beset from the moment you moor till the moment you pole off again from
shore. The boy who drives your donkey, the guide who pilots you among
the tombs, the half-naked fellah who flings down his hoe as you pass and
runs beside you for half a mile across the plain, have one and all an
“anteekah” to dispose of. The turbaned official who comes, attended by
his secretary and pipe-bearer, to pay you a visit of ceremony, warns you
against imposition, and hints at genuine treasures to which he alone
possesses the key. The gentlemanly native who sits next to you at dinner
has a wonderful scarab in his pocket. In short, every man, woman and
child about the place is bent on selling a bargain; and the bargain, in
ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, is valuable in so far as it
represents the industry of Luxor--but no farther. A good thing, of
course, is to be had occasionally; but the good thing never comes to the
surface as long as a market can be found for the bad one. It is only
when the dealer finds he has to do with an experienced customer that he
produces the best he has.
Flourishing as it is, the trade of Luxor labors, however, under some
uncomfortable restrictions. Private excavation being prohibited, the
digger lives in dread of being found out by the governor. The forger,
who has nothing to fear from the governor, lives in dread of being found
out by the tourist. As for the dealer, whether he sells an antique or an
imitation, he is equally liable to punishment. In the one case he
commits an offense against the state; and in the other, he obtains money
under false pretenses. Meanwhile, the governor deals out such
even-handed justice as he can, and does his best to enforce the law on
both sides of the river.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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