Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
A dahabeeyah, at the first glance, is more like a civic or an Oxford
University barge, than anything in the shape of a boat with which we in
England are familiar. It is shallow and flat-bottomed, and is adapted
for either sailing or rowing. It carries two masts; a big one near the
prow and a smaller one at the stern. The cabins are on deck and occupy
the after-part of the vessel; and the roof of the cabins forms the
raised deck, or open-air drawing-room already mentioned. This upper deck
is reached from the lower deck by two little flights of steps, and is
the exclusive territory of the passengers. The lower deck is the
territory of the crew. A dahabeeyah is, in fact, not very unlike the
Noah’s ark of our childhood, with this difference--the habitable part,
instead of occupying the middle of the vessel, is all at one end, top
heavy and many-windowed; while the fore-deck is not more than six feet
above the level of the water. The hold, however, is under the lower
deck, and so counterbalances the weight at the other end. Not to
multiply comparisons unnecessarily, I may say that a large dahabeeyah
reminds one of old pictures of the Bucentaur; especially when the men
are at their oars.
The kitchen--which is a mere shed like a Dutch oven in shape, and
contains only a charcoal stove and a row of stew-pans--stands between
the big mast and the prow, removed as far as possible from the
passengers’ cabins. In this position the cook is protected from a
favorable wind by his shed; but in the case of a contrary wind he is
screened by an awning. How, under even the most favorable circumstances,
these men can serve up the elaborate dinners which are the pride of a
Nile cook’s heart, is sufficiently wonderful; but how they achieve the
same results when wind-storms and sand-storms are blowing and every
breath is laden with the fine grit of the desert, is little short of
miraculous.
Thus far, all dahabeeyahs are alike. The cabin arrangements differ,
however, according to the size of the boat; and it must be remembered
that in describing the Philæ I describe a dahabeeyah of the largest
build--her total length from stem to stern being just one hundred feet,
and the width of her upper deck at the broadest part little short of
twenty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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