Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
It is a touching and picturesque procession--much more picturesque than
ours and much more numerous; notwithstanding that our united forces,
including donkey boys, porters and miscellaneous hangers-on, number
nearer thirty than twenty persons. For there are the M. B.’s and their
nephew, and L---- and the writer, and L----’s maid, and Talhamy, all on
donkeys; and then there are the owners of the donkeys, also on donkeys;
and then every donkey has a boy; and every boy has a donkey; and every
donkey-boy’s donkey has an inferior boy in attendance. Our style of
dress, too, however convenient, is not exactly in harmony with the
surrounding scenery; and one cannot but feel, as these draped and dusty
pilgrims pass us on the road, that we cut a sorry figure with our
hideous palm-leaf hats, green veils, and white umbrellas.
But the most amazing and incongruous personage in our whole procession
is unquestionably George. Now George is an English north-country groom
whom the M. B.’s have brought out from the wilds of Lancashire, partly
because he is a good shot and may be useful to “Master Alfred” after
birds and crocodiles, and partly from a well-founded belief in his
general abilities. And George, who is a fellow of infinite jest and
infinite resource, takes to eastern life as a duckling to the water. He
picks up Arabic as if it were his mother tongue. He skins birds like a
practiced taxidermist. He can even wash and iron on occasion. He is, in
short, groom, footman, house-maid, laundry-maid, stroke-oar, gamekeeper
and general factotum all in one. And, besides all this, he is gifted
with a comic gravity of countenance that no surprises and no disasters
can upset for a moment. To see this worthy anachronism cantering along
in his groom’s coat and gaiters, livery-buttons, spotted neckcloth, tall
hat, and all the rest of it; his long legs dangling within an inch of
the ground on either side of the most diminutive of donkeys; his
double-barreled fowling-piece under his arm, and that imperturbable look
in his face, one would have sworn that he and Egypt were friends of old,
and that he had been brought up on pyramids from his earliest childhood.
It is a long and shelterless ride from the palms to the desert; but we
come to the end of it at last, mounting just such another sand-slope as
that which leads up from the Ghîzeh road to the foot of the great
pyramid. The edge of the plateau here rises abruptly from the plain in
one long range of low perpendicular cliffs pierced with dark mouths of
rock-cut sepulchers, while the sand-slope by which we are climbing pours
down through a breach in the rock, as an Alpine snow-drift flows through
a mountain gap from the ice-level above.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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