Luxor--Donkey-boys--Topography of Ancient Thebes--Pylons of Luxor--Poem of Pentaur--The Solitary Obelisk--Interior of the Temple of Luxor--Polite Postmaster--Ride to Karnak--Great Temple of Karnak--The Hypostyle Hall--A World of Ruins 121 CHAPTER IX. THEBES TO ASSUAN. A Storm on the Nile--Erment--A Gentlemanly Bey--Esneh--A Buried Temple--A Long Day’s Sketching--Salame the Chivalrous--Remarkable Coin--Antichi--The Fellâh--The Pylons of Edfu--An Exciting Race--The Philæ Wins by a Length 140 CHAPTER X. ASSUAN AND ELEPHANTINE. Assûan--Strange Wares for Sale--Madame Nubia--Castor Oil--The Black Governor--An Enormous Blunder--Tannhäuser in Egypt--Elephantine--Inscribed Potsherds--Bazaar of Assûan--The Camel--A Ride in the Desert--The Obelisk of the Quarry--A Death in the Town 157 CHAPTER XI. THE CATARACT AND THE DESERT. Scenery of the Cataract--The Sheik of the Cataract--Vexatious Delays--The Painter’s Vocabulary--Mahatta--Ancient Bed of the Nile--Abyssinian Caravan 176 CHAPTER XII. PHILÆ. Pharaoh’s Bed--The Temples--Champollion’s Discovery--The Painted Columns--Coptic Philæ--Philæ and Desaix--Chamber of Osiris--Inscribed Rock--View from the Roof of the Temple 188 CHAPTER XIII. PHILÆ TO KOROSKO. Nubian Scenery--A Sand-slope--Missing Yûsef--Trading by the Way--Panoramic Views--Volcanic Cones--Dakkeh--Korosko--Letters from Home 211 CHAPTER XIV. KOROSKO TO ABOU SIMBEL. El-Id el-Kebîr--Stalking Wild Ducks--Temple of Amada--Fine Art of the Thothmes--Derr--A Native Funeral--Temple of Derr--The “Fair” Families--The Sakkieh--Arrival at Abou Simbel by Moonlight 220 CHAPTER XV. RAMESES THE GREAT. Youth of Rameses the Great--Treaty with the Kheta--His Wives--His Great Works--The Captivity--Pithom and Rameses--Kauiser and Keniamon--The Birth of Moses--Tomb of Osymandias--Character of Rameses the Great 236 CHAPTER XVI. ABOU SIMBEL. The Colossi--Portraits of Rameses the Great--The Great Sand-drift--The Smaller Temples--“Rameses and Nefertari”--The Great Temple--A Monster Tableau--Alone in the Great Temple--Trail of a Crocodile--Cleaning the Colossus--The Sufferings of the Sketcher 258 CHAPTER XVII. THE SECOND CATARACT. Volcanic Mountains--Kalat Adda--Gebel est-Shems--The First Crocodile--Dull Scenery--Wady Halfeh--The Rock of Abusîr--The Second Cataract--The Great View--Crocodile-slaying--Excavating a Tumulus--Comforts of Home on the Nile 283 CHAPTER XVIII. DISCOVERIES AT ABOU SIMBEL.