Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
Every traveler on the Nile brings away a handful of the smaller scarabs,
genuine or otherwise. Some may not particularly care to possess them;
yet none can help buying them, if only because other people do so, or to
get rid of a troublesome dealer, or to give to friends at home. I doubt,
however, if even the most enthusiastic scarab-fanciers really feel in
all its force the symbolism attaching to these little gems, or
appreciate the exquisite naturalness of their execution, till they have
seen the living beetle at its work.
In Nubia, where the strip of cultivable land is generally but a few feet
in breadth, the scarab’s task is comparatively light and the breed
multiplies freely. But in Egypt he has often a wide plain to traverse
with his burden, and is therefore scarce in proportion to the difficulty
with which he maintains the struggle for existence. The scarab race in
Egypt would seem indeed to have diminished very considerably since the
days of the Pharaohs, and the time is not perhaps far distant when the
naturalist will look in vain for specimens on this side of the first
cataract. As far as my own experience goes, I can only say that I saw
scores of these beetles during the Nubian part of the journey; but that
to the best of my recollection this was the only occasion upon which I
observed one in Egypt.
The Nile makes four or five more great bends between Gebel Abufayda and
Siût; passing Manafalût by the way, which town lies some distance back
from the shore. All things taken into consideration--the fitful wind
that came and went continually; the tremendous zigzags of the river; the
dead calm which befell us when only eight miles from Siût; and the long
day of tracking that followed, with the town in sight the whole way--we
thought ourselves fortunate to get in by the evening of the third day
after the storm. These last eight miles are, however, for open, placid
beauty, as lovely in their way as anything north of Thebes. The valley
is here very wide and fertile; the town, with its multitudinous
minarets, appears first on one side and then on the other, according to
the windings of the river; the distant pinky mountains look almost as
transparent as the air or the sunshine; while the banks unfold an
endless succession of charming little subjects, every one of which looks
as if it asked to be sketched as we pass. A shâdûf and a clump of
palms--a triad of shaggy black buffaloes, up to their shoulders in the
river, and dozing as they stand--a wide-spreading sycamore fig, in the
shade of which lie a man and camel asleep--a fallen palm uprooted by the
last inundation, with its fibrous roots yet clinging to the bank and its
crest in the water--a group of sheiks’ tombs with glistening white
cupolas relieved against a background of dark foliage--an old disused
water-wheel lying up sidewise against the bank like a huge teetotom, and
garlanded with wild tendrils of a gourd--such are a few out of many bits
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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