July 22. Left Dundalk, took the road through Ravensdale to Mr.
Fortescue, to whom I had a letter, but unfortunately he was in the South
of Ireland. Here I saw many good stone and slate houses, and some bleach
greens; and I was much pleased to see the inclosures creeping high up the
sides of the mountains, stony as they are. Mr. Fortescue's situation is
very romantic--on the side of a mountain, with fine wood hanging on every
side, with the lawn beautifully scattered with trees spreading into them,
and a pretty river winding through the vale, beautiful in itself, but
trebly so on information that before he fixed there it was all a wild
waste. Rents in Ravensdale ten shillings; mountain land two shillings
and sixpence to five shillings. Also large tracts rented by villages,
the cottars dividing it among themselves, and making the mountain common
for their cattle.
Breakfasted at Newry--the Globe, another good inn. This town appears
exceedingly flourishing, and is very well built; yet forty years ago, I
was told, there were nothing but mud cabins in it. This great rise has
been much owing to the canal to Loch Neagh. I crossed it twice; it is
indeed a noble work. I was amazed to see ships of one hundred and fifty
tons and more lying in it, like barges in an English canal. Here is a
considerable trade.
Reached Armagh in the evening, and waited on the Primate.
July 23. His Grace rode out with me to Armagh, and showed me some of the
noble and spirited works by which he has perfectly changed the face of
the neighbourhood. The buildings he has erected in seven years, one
would suppose, without previous information, to be the work of an active
life. A list of them will justify this observation.
He has erected a very elegant palace, ninety feet by sixty, and forty
high, in which an unadorned simplicity reigns. It is light and pleasing,
without the addition of wings or lesser parts, which too frequently
wanting a sufficient uniformity with the body of the edifice, are
unconnected with it in effect, and divide the attention. Large and ample
offices are conveniently placed behind a plantation at a small distance.
Around the palace is a large lawn, which spreads on every side over the
hills, and is skirted by young plantations, in one of which is a terrace,
which commands a most beautiful view of cultivated hill and dale. The
view from the palace is much improved by the barracks, the school, and a
new church at a distance, all which are so placed as to be exceedingly
ornamental to the whole country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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