A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
In the dead of the night, and in a deep fog, a fishing boat dropped
along side, the master of which told us that the last vessel which had
arrived from England had been confiscated, and all the passengers made
prisoners, and after this exordium offered to conduct us in safety past
the guard-ship if we would give him two guineas apiece: and to secure
our transit, he proposed shutting us all down in his cabin, under
hatchways, for that night and the whole of the next day, and then
dropping past the guard-ship in the evening; during all which time we
must have sat chin to knee, and have been infinitely worse accommodated
than a cargo of African slaves. As we had an aversion from being
introduced into the kingdom in this furtive manner, we persisted in
refusing to quit our vessel, to the no little mortification of our
captain, who having safely deposited our passage money in a large tin
box, was very anxious to get rid of us in any manner. I believe personal
apprehensions induced him to weigh the anchor early next morning, and to
bear away for Maaslandsleys, on the other side of the Maas, where after
the captain had satisfied the commodore commanding the guard-ships
there, to whom he was well known, that we all came from Varel, a little
neutral town to the eastward of the Weser, a fast sailing fishing boat
was provided to take us up to Rotterdam, a distance of twenty-five
miles, at half a guinea a head.
Gladly we bade adieu to our miserable ark, and about six o’clock in the
evening embarked upon the Merwe river, a noble branch of the Maas, the
breadth of which is about a mile, lessening but in a little degree as it
reaches Rotterdam. The water of this river is rather foul, its shores
are beautifully lined with villages, farm houses and avenues of trees. A
botanical gentleman informed me that the eryngium campestre, field
eryngo, so very rare in England, grows in great profusion, and wild, on
either side of the river, and in most other parts of Holland.
When the night advanced, the floating lanterns of the fishermen had a
pleasing and romantic effect, as we glided along with a fine breeze; and
a row of lamps running parallel with a canal supplied by the Merwe,
announced our passing Schiedam, so celebrated throughout Holland for its
distilleries of geneva, of which we were informed there were three
hundred before the Dutch submitted to the arms of France.
When the French troops entered Holland as victors, this beautiful river,
in a season remarkably rigorous, formed a compact road of ice for the
infantry, cavalry, and artillery, of the invaders: dreadful as the
winter was, the French were in want of the most necessary articles of
clothing; even whole battalions were destitute of shoes and stockings,
and centinels frequently did duty with no other covering than a tattered
blanket, and the fragment of a pair of breeches, which time and service
had reduced by instalments to little more than a few shreds: yet they
did not repine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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