A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
All of which I duly answered in writing, except the last interrogatory
but one, namely, “where are you going?” under which I peevishly wrote,
“to sleep,” consolidated into one word, in large close letters. To an
Englishman unaccustomed to such examinations, which after all are little
more than formal, although every innkeeper by law is obliged to make
such report of every traveller on his arrival, they are very liable to
excite an inverted blessing upon the heads of those who trouble him in
this manner.
Wesel is an abominable dunghill, very strongly fortified. In the course
of my perambulations through the town, the objects which I met with were
infinitely more offensive to the sense of smelling than gratifying to
that of seeing, and doubly disgusting from the contrast of exquisite
cleanliness which the country I had just quitted, exhibited. This part
of Westphalia is very flat, barren, sandy, and dreary, presenting little
more than thin patches of buckwheat. The roads are very heavy, and with
an exception to an oratory in a little grove, and three wooden effigies
as large as life, representing the crucifixion, not one enlivening or
interesting object presented itself. I mention the following travelling
anecdote by way of caution to my reader, should he select this route. At
Dinslaken, one of the post towns between Wesel and Dusseldorf, the
post-master told me that two horses would not be sufficient in such
roads for the carriage, and declared his determination, that unless I
took three, I should have none. If I had submitted to this imposition
here, I must have done so throughout; I was therefore obliged to
compound with this extortioner in office, by paying half of a third
horse, which sum went into his pocket, and pursued my route with a
couple, who conducted me in very good style to the next post town. In
every part of Germany the postmasters are appointed by, and are under
the control of the reigning prince of Turn and Saxis, the hereditary
director and post-master general of the roads in that part of Europe. My
driver stopped to give his horses some wretched hard bread, used by the
peasantry in Westphalia, composed of straw and oats, called
_bonpournikel_ from the following circumstance. Many years since a
Frenchman, travelling in this country, called for bread for himself, and
upon this sort being presented, he exclaimed, _C’est bon pour Nikel_
(the name of his horse); upon which the old woman who had brought it in
ran about the village in a great pet relating the story.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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