A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
As I was proceeding by moon-light, a German gentleman who had travelled
some way with me was observing, that throughout Westphalia a robbery
upon the highway had not been known for many years, and that a traveller
was as safe in the night as in the day; and at the moment when he had
just finished an animated eulogium upon the invincible honesty of the
people, I happened to observe the shadow of a man behind the cabriolet,
the head of which was raised, apparently very busy in endeavouring to
cut off our trunks, which, upon our jumping out, proved to be the case;
the fellow was much alarmed by our appearance, fell upon his knees, and
declared that he belonged to Dusseldorf, and poverty had prompted him to
quit that city, and try his fortune on the highway. Nothing could exceed
the indignation of the German the moment he knew that our prisoner was a
Westphalian; had he fortunately announced himself as a native of any
other country, I believe he would have rather relieved the fellow’s
distress, than pierced his ears, and perhaps his heart, with the bitter
reproaches he heaped upon him: however, as the affair furnished me with
a hearty laugh, I prevailed upon my companion to forgive the poor
wretch, whose face and clothes indicated extreme wretchedness, and
permit him to depart in peace; and we proceeded without further
interruption to within a short stage of Dusseldorf, where we slept.
The appearance of Dusseldorf at a little distance is very handsome,
particularly from the _Grand ducal road_, as it was styled. Upon my
driving up to the principal inn, the maitre d’hotel with great pomp came
out, and informed me in bad French that his house was then nearly full;
that the grand Dutchess from Paris was expected every day; that his
bed-rooms would be wanted for those belonging to the court who could not
be accommodated at the palace, and, finally, that he could not receive
me. As I immediately guessed his object, I told him that I intended to
stay some days at Dusseldorf. “Oh, very well,” said he, archly adding,
“you are an Englishman I perceive.” “No, sir, an American.” “Oh,”
replied he, “never mind, it is the same thing: walk in, sir, and we will
see what we can do for you.” This inn, the only eminent one in town, is
spacious and handsome, and the table d’hote excellently supplied with a
great variety of dishes, both at dinner and supper, perfectly well
dressed. During my stay I was known by no other name than that of
Monsieur Anglois, an appellation not very gratifying to me, upon
reflecting that I was a sojourner in the territory of a brother-in-law
of Napoleon, who, knowing that he is no favourite with the English,
dislikes England and every thing that can remind him of it, to such a
degree, that an English gentleman and lady, whom I knew, who had been
detained prisoners of war in France, but were afterwards liberated, upon
their route from Verdun to Holland to embark for their country, were one
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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