A tour through some parts of France, Switzerland, Savoy, Germany and Belgium, during the summer and autumn of 1814Bernard, Richard Boyle
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A tour through some parts of France, Switzerland, Savoy, Germany and Belgium, during the summer and autumn of 1814
Bernard, Richard Boyle
Europe -- Description and travel
The woods here are very extensive, and almost entirely composed of fir;
they produce annually a succession of plants which form an underwood,
and greatly contribute to the beauty of the scene, by concealing the
naked stems of the older trees.
The houses in the villages in the canton of Zurich much resemble those
in England, being mostly built of plaster, and roofed with tiles. I was
pleased with this change, after the heavy wooden houses, and projecting
roofs (of nearly three times the height of the building) usually seen in
the canton of Berne. They do not tend to enliven the country like those
of Zurich, where the eye notices the contrast between the whitened
cottages and green meadows. We spent a day at Winterthur, which is a
considerable municipal town, rendered lively by trade. The manufactory
of oil of vitriol is on a large scale, and is worthy of attention. There
are several bleach-greens in the neighbourhood, as well as many
vineyards, but of no great celebrity. The public library is extensive,
and there is also a considerable collection of medals.
We left Winterthur on foot, as the bridge over the river Thur was under
repair, and not passable for a carriage, and as we wished to approach
the _fall of the Rhine_ by this road. We breakfasted at _Adelfaigen_,
three leagues distant, and near the town were ferried over the Thar.
About two hours afterwards, we heard the distant roar of the Cataract,
and although I had heard so much previously of the grandeur of the
scene, yet I was not disappointed with the sight. There are many falls
much greater in point of height, and I had seen two previously which
exceed the present one in that particular, but then the force of Water
was there inconsiderable and uncertain: here one of the greatest rivers
in Europe falls with inconceivable force down a perpendicular height of
from sixty to eighty feet. The colour of the Rhine is greenish, and the
mixture of the water with the foam, has a curious effect. The castle of
Lauffen hangs over the river, and appears to tremble from the force of
the Cataract.
The surrounding scenery is bold and picturesque, and when viewed from a
boat on the river, the effect is very striking. There is a _camera
obscura_ placed in an ancient castle, which projects into the fiver, and
which we admired extremely. It is supposed that the height of this
celebrated cascade is much diminished from what it was formerly, and if
we consider the vast force of the torrent which the rock has sustained
for ages, it seems but reasonable to conclude, that it must have yielded
to such powerful and long continued assaults. We remained a considerable
time contemplating this magnificent scene, and then returned through the
village of Lauffen, and observed that the spire of its _church_ was
covered with _painted tiles_, which in this district seem a common
species of decoration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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