A tour through some parts of France, Switzerland, Savoy, Germany and Belgium, during the summer and autumn of 1814Bernard, Richard Boyle
History
A tour through some parts of France, Switzerland, Savoy, Germany and Belgium, during the summer and autumn of 1814
Bernard, Richard Boyle
Europe -- Description and travel
Berne is not a city of very remote antiquity, having been founded in
the year 1191. It is 1650 feet above the level of the sea. The
fortifications are kept in tolerable order, but from the height of most
of the surrounding hills, above the city, cannot be considered as of
much utility. In the trenches are kept several very large stags, and
also several _bears_; there being an annual rent of 1200 livres for
their support. This animal is thus favoured, as being the _armorial
bearing_ of the city (to which it gives name) and these arms are every
where to be seen, there being few barns without them. There are many
handsome churches in Berne: the tower of the cathedral is very fine, and
it contains many windows of stained glass. The public library is well
worth visiting; as is also the _botanic_ garden, which is on a most
extensive scale; in it is placed the tomb of the celebrated _Haller_. I
was much struck by the great number of chemists' shops in Berne. The
bakers' shops also are very numerous, and the bread is inferior to none
in Europe.
A stranger is surprised to see the _convicts chained to the carts_
which are constantly in use to keep the streets clean. I confess the
sight displeased me, and this system would not be tolerated in England,
where I think there was an attempt to introduce it during the reign of
Edward the Sixth. The objects that most pleased me, at Berne, were the
_public walks_, which are unequalled by any I have _ever_ seen, in
respect to their number, extent, and the neatness with which they are
kept. The views from some of these walks are quite magnificent; one, in
particular, on an eminence beyond the city, which follows the course of
the Aar for a long distance, commands a view which can never be
forgotten by these who have seen it. The city is a striking object at a
distance from the number of its spires; but although, from the
spaciousness of its streets, it covers a good deal of ground, yet it is
by no means populous, the inhabitants being only 11,500, but there are
no mendicants. The public roads, in the Canton of Berne, are kept in
excellent order, and every thing indicates the activity of the
administration. The government is an aristocracy, and I was informed
the chief power of of the state is vested in about twentyfour of the
principal families. There are, doubtless, in general, many strong
objections against this form of government, but the comfort, opulence,
and appearance of content, which is remarked in the Bernese is such,
that it is impossible to suppose they are not well governed; the least
observant traveller may soon perceive, by the appearance of a people,
whether they are subject to a free or to a despotic government. I
cannot, however, subscribe to Pope's opinion,
"That which is best administered is best."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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