A tour throughout South Wales and MonmouthshireBarber, J. T. (John Thomas)
History
A tour throughout South Wales and Monmouthshire
Barber, J. T. (John Thomas)
Monmouthshire (Wales) -- Description and travel; Wales, South -- Description and travel
By the time we had reascended to the turnpike, the evening was closing
apace; and this circumstance, with the uncomfortable state of the
weather, made it a great object with us to take up our night’s quarters
as soon as possible. Pembroke was eight miles distant, Carew (called
Carey) only two or three, as we were informed by some country-people; we
therefore struck off into a bridle-road for the latter place, under their
direction; but soon found ourselves at a loss which to choose of three
roads that presented themselves; yet, seeing no one of whom we could
enquire, we were obliged to advance at hazard; and, after a long ride
through mire and loose stones, on meeting with a cottager, were directed
to return all the way back, and take a different route. This vexatious
task performed, we found ourselves again at a loss, and again took a
false route. We were now completely enveloped in the darkness of night;
the weather continued stormy; and our craggy road hardly wore the
distinctness of a track. In this forlorn condition we slowly paced on,
not exclaiming like Ossian’s chief, “Let clouds rest on the hills,
spirits fly, and travellers fear; let the winds of the woods arise, the
sounding storms descend; roar streams, and windows flap, and green-winged
meteors fly; rise the pale moon from behind her hills, or inclose her
head in clouds, night is alike to me, blue, stormy, or gloomy the sky.”
Alas! it made a sensible difference to us; but at length a distant
glimmering of light appeared between the trees, which we gladly traced to
a lonely cottage. Here, on our calling out, a tall raw-boned man opened
the door, and discovered three others who were regaling round a blazing
hearth: these were all miners in a neighbouring coal-work. The uniform
black appearance of this group, their long matted, hair half hiding their
faces, which caught a ferocious turn from the strong partial light of the
fire, was not calculated to inspire prepossession in their favour; but,
though in the exterior repulsive as their cheerless occupation, their
hearts were not estranged from sensations of benevolence; and yet, so
little had they of refinement, as to offer no complimentary condolence on
hearing of our difficulties; even yet more unfashionably by actual
services they relieved them. “Masters,” said one of the men, “if you’ll
but step in a minute while I finish my mess of porridge, I’ll put you
into the right road; it can’t be darker than it is; do sit down, and let
me put your horses in the cow-house; I suppose you wou’dn’t like our fare
(it was a mess of barley and greens stewed with a bit of meat or bacon);
but mother can give you a drop of good mead, and some decentish bread and
butter.” This invitation, with the manner in which it was conveyed,
offered a relief that neither of us was inclined to reject; for, indeed,
we had tasted nothing since breakfast, and besides found that some barley
might be had for our horses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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