The case is different with us: calms and light variable breezes have kept us in sight of Strombolo the whole day. The volcano is on its south-west side, in so fortunate a situation for the inhabitants, that they have little to fear from eruptions; for the crater is about one fifth of the height of the island below its summit, and is surrounded on every side but that nearest the sea, by large cliffs, which seem to overhang it on purpose to check the eruption when it takes any other direction; for the stones and ashes which it casts forth, rebounding from the rocks above, are either again swallowed up, or thrown down the south-west side into the ocean. In the afternoon, there was an explosion like the springing of a small mine. The smoke occasioned by this, being quickly dispelled, it resumed its former state, which, at the distance of five leagues, appeared exactly like that which issues from a large double chimney. At this time it bore S. S. E. At dusk, it looked like a lime-kiln, and every three or four minutes emitted a flame, which blazed for a few seconds like a furnace on fire. During the night, it appeared in all its glory, with every symptom of an approaching grand eruption. The crater seemed full of burning matter, boiling on its surface, and every now and then throwing up a large column of red-hot stones, which bounded down the side of the mountain into the sea, and, in a manner setting fire to the air as they flew through it, formed one of the grandest sights it is possible to conceive. The beautiful effect of these flying red-hot rocks was not lost until they had been some seconds under water. Formerly there were only seven of these islands, now there are eleven; and, from the active state of Strombolo, which is considerably detached from the rest, I should not be surprised to hear that another island was thrown up near it: but such an event, although often reported, I can assure you, has not lately happened here. The last phenomenon of this kind that has been thoroughly authenticated, is in the Archipelago, which, in a few weeks, I hope to visit. All the Lipari islands have had volcanoes in their time; but most of them have been extinct for many centuries. The whole are subject to the King of Naples, and add a considerable sum to his revenue, from the trade they carry on in wine, alum, sulphur, and dried fruit. The wine is famous; I tasted some of it at Naples, but did not think it equal to its reputation. Friday, October 5th. At day-break, Strombolo was two leagues astern. It looks like a huge rock rising boldly out of the sea, seems to be about twelve miles in circumference, and has a small town on the south-east side. The coast of Calabria, and of Sicily, also in sight. Latitude, at mid-day, 38° 37′. At sun-set, we entered the celebrated straits of Scylla and Charybdis, and, in less than an hour and a half, anchored at Messina. LETTER XII.