Americans -- Europe -- History -- 20th century; Dreiser, Theodore, 1871-1945 -- Travel -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel
and will continue to do so, no doubt, until time shall be no more.
It was interesting to me to see the once large and really beautiful
Dominican monastery surrounding San Giorgio turned into barracks and
offices for government officials. I do not see why these churches
should not be turned into libraries or galleries. Their religious
import is quite gone.
In Venice it was, I think, that I got a little sick of churches and
second- and third-rate art. The city itself is so beautiful, exteriorly
speaking, that only the greatest art could be tolerated here, yet
aside from the Academy, which is crowded with canvases by Bellini,
Tintoretto, Titian, Veronese and others of the Venetian school, and the
Ducal Palace, largely decorated by Tintoretto and Veronese, there is
nothing, save of course St. Mark’s. Outside of that and the churches of
the Salute and San Giorgio,--both bad, artistically, I think,--there
are thirty-three or thirty-four other churches all with bits of
something which gets them into the catalogues, a Titian, a Tintoretto,
a Giorgione or a Paolo Veronese, until the soul wearies and you say to
yourself--“Well, I’ve had about enough of this--what is the use?”
There is no use. Unless you are tracing the rise of religious art, or
trying to visit the tombs of semi-celebrated persons, or following out
the work of some one man or group of men to the last fragment you might
as well desist. There is nothing in it. I sought church after church,
entering dark, pleasant, but not often imposing, interiors only to
find a single religious representation of one kind or another hardly
worth the trouble. In the Frari I found Titian’s famous Madonna of the
Pescaro family and a pretentious mausoleum commemorating Canova, and in
Santa Maria Formosa Palma Vecchio’s St. Barbara and four other saints,
which appealed to me very much, but in the main I was disappointed
and made dreary. After St. Peter’s, the Vatican, St. Paul’s Without
the Walls in Rome, the cathedrals at Pisa and elsewhere, and the
great galleries of Florence, Venice seemed to me artistically dull. I
preferred always to get out into the streets again to see the small
shops, to encounter the winding canals, to cross the little bridges and
to feel that here was something new and different, far different and
more artistic than anything which any church or museum could show.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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