[Transcriber's Note: Italic text is represented by _underscores_. Small capitals in the original have been converted to all capitals. Footnotes have been moved to the end of the text.] A TREATISE ON HAT-MAKING AND FELTING, INCLUDING A FULL EXPOSITION OF THE SINGULAR PROPERTIES OF FUR, WOOL, AND HAIR. BY JOHN THOMSON, A PRACTICAL HATTER. PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BAIRD, INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER, 406 Walnut Street. LONDON: E. & F. N. SPON, 48 Charing Cross. 1868. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by HENRY CAREY BAIRD, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States in and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. PHILADELPHIA: COLLINS, PRINTER, 705 JAYNE STREET. CONTENTS. Descriptions of furs, wools, hairs, &c. 11 The fulling mill 24 History of hats and hatting 25 The fashions 28 Preparation of materials 29 Stiffening and water-proofing materials 31 The blowing machine 35 The manufacture of hats 36 Shaving 44 Stiffening process 44 Ruffing or napping 45 Blocking 47 Dyeing 47 Pumicing or pouncing 48 Finishing 49 Silk hatting 52 Forming machines 56 Shoes and gaiters of felt 60 Printer's sheets 61 Cloth hats 63 Conclusion 65 TREATISE ON HAT-MAKING AND FELTING. It is conceded as an axiom, that theory and practice, in the pursuit of any object, are in their natures essentially different and distinct. But at the same time they long for a mutual understanding each to confirm the assertions of the other, the consummation of all practical results being the mutual embrace and perfect reconciliation of these two attributes. The writer of these pages, being a practical hatter, desires to describe intelligibly his calling, dispensing with all technical terms, at the same time conscious of being liable to receive an unfair criticism from his brother tradesmen, although perfectly innocent on their part, resulting from the prejudices engendered by the many would-be secrets that pertain to the different work-shops, together with their various modes and methods of working, all of which most generally are but trifles merely to gain a name.