A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair — John Shaqi
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
History
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
The hat bodies, before they are stiffened, should be steeped in a weak
solution of soda, to destroy any acid that may have been left in them.
If sulphuric acid has been used in the making of the bodies, after they
have been steeped in the alkaline solution they must be perfectly dried
in the stove before the stiffening is applied.
When stiffened and stoved, they should be steeped all night in water to
which a small quantity of sulphuric acid has been added. This sets the
stiffening in the hat body and finishes the process.
If the proof is required cheaper, more shellac and rosin may be
introduced.
The Blowing Machine.
In the manufacture of the finest kinds of fur hats, namely, those with
a flowing nap, the stuffs of which they are made must be thoroughly
refined.
The clipping and pulling operations, to which the skins were subjected
previous to cutting off the fur, never free the fur entirely of the
coarse hairs that are intermixed with the finer; and to separate the
coarse from the fine, the fur, as it came off the skin, is placed
under the action of the blowing machine, which consists of a long,
close, narrow, wooden box, divided into a number of apartments, the
divisions between each of them having an open space at the top or
bottom, so that a blast of wind can be propelled through the whole
length of the trunk. The fur is put into one of these receptacles at
one end, where it is teased and tossed by revolving brushes set in
the bottoms of several of them, and a revolving fan is placed at the
head. The whole being set in motion by some first power, the blast of
wind from the fan seizes the loose thrown up fur that is tossed by
the revolving breakers and brushes, and the stream of flying fur is
transmitted from division to division, along the whole length of the
wooden box. In this operation, the fur is graded as it is blown along
and deposited gradually in the respective places, lodging in the most
regular order, from the one end of the wooden trunk to the other, the
dust and dirt falling down below, the heavier portion of fur not being
blown to the same distance as that of the finer, which reaches the
farther end, where the finest of all is received entirely refined of
its impurities. But the cutting and blowing of fur are both independent
and distinct branches of business, although relatively connected with
that of hatting, and the various grades of fur are bought by the
hatters from the professional hat furriers or their agents.
The Manufacture of Hats.
Before commencing a detail of the processes of the trade, it will be
necessary to bear in mind that hatting is universally divided into two
great divisions, viz., the making, and the finishing departments, each
of which as a matter of course has its subdivisions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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