A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair — John Shaqi
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
History
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
When a hat arrives at that state of forwardness ready for finishing,
it is a very unsightly object to any person but a hatter. Most of its
processes have been wet ones, but now it is to assume a genteel and
prepossessing appearance, under the artistic appliances of brushes,
cloths, hot irons, and labored exercise. If a plain soft hat, it is
pulled over such a block as is required, a cord is run round the hat to
keep it tight upon the block; the tip and brim are then flattened with
the hot iron, wet sponge, brushes, and hair-cloth cushion or velure,
several wettings being necessary in finishing.
[Illustration: Fig. 6.
Hat Iron.]
The brim is next cut to the required width, and the cord run down
to the depth of the block. The side-crown is now to be finished,
along with the tip and upper and under sides of the brim, the hatter
exercising his best judgment. The block is then withdrawn, the brim
curled and set, and the finished hat sent off to the trimmer to get
lined and bound; it is then tipped off and packed for market.
The finishing of this kind of hat is a simple operation when compared
to that of a napped hat; requiring only the assuming of the proper
shape and form, the solidifying of the body, and giving it such a
lustre and finish as the quality of the material will allow.
The stiff cassimere hat being less flexible, is subjected to hot steam
preparatory to blocking, whereby it is made soft and pliable. When in
this state it is drawn down over the block, and the block withdrawn, to
insert a prepared disk of pasteboard into the crown for strength, after
which it is finished much in the same way as that already described,
but with the difference, that a cloth must always intervene between the
hot iron and the hat when finishing.
The finishing of a napped hat, whether it be brush or beaver, is a
very different process from that for either of those just described,
requiring the nicest attention and patient perseverance by the best
workmen. The hats are given out by the half dozen, which are sorted for
the different sizes and steamed one by one; the hot steam softens the
stiffening, and when pliable, the hat is drawn down over the respective
finishing blocks, the nap of each hat straightened with a wet brush,
and a half finish given to it with the water, brush, and bare hot
iron. The block is then withdrawn and the hat given to be shaved with
a razor. This seems a singular operation; but a few passes with that
instrument over the hat effectually cut off all those projecting coarse
hairs that have eluded all previous attempts at removal, and without in
the smallest degree endangering the finer fur of the nap. The hat is
now returned to the finisher to complete the process.
These coarse hairs, when left in the hat depreciating very materially
its value, were formerly plucked out by hand with a pair of pickers,
hair by hair, often to the injury of the hat. The advantage of the
razor will be obvious to all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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