A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair — John Shaqi
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
History
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
The brim is yet to be finished, which is done by hand, with the
brushes, sponge, iron, &c., and made to shine like the crown; after
this it is given to the trimmer to be trimmed and bound, when it comes
back to be curled and properly shaped in the brim, suiting the taste of
the wearer. The workman who gives the hat its final touches makes use
of a number of tools, which, though of seemingly trifling appearance,
are nevertheless necessary for his department, which requires a refined
taste.
Forming Machines.
Such is hat-making, but we cannot conclude without remarking that
there have been many patents granted in this and other countries for
improvements in hatting, that we cannot notice. Nevertheless there
are two, of decided merit, claiming attention, as having entirely
revolutionized one-half of the making department, and which may be
modified and extended to answer many purposes, in addition to that of
hat-making.
[Illustration: Fig. 7.
Forming Machine for Fur Hat Bodies.]
The first and most ingenious is called the pneumatic process of forming
the bodies, hence in all large cities the bowing operation is not
employed. It is as follows: A cone of sheet copper punched full of
small holes, and set upright, revolves slowly upon its axis; beneath
this or attached to it an exhausting fan is placed, causing by its
rotation a current of air to draw through the holes from the outside.
A trunk or box with an opening facing against this revolving cone,
discharges the fur which is fed into it at the other end by a feeding
apron, in quantity just sufficient for one hat-body. It is drawn into
this trunk between two rollers that are covered with leather or felt,
and immediately seized by a cylinder revolving about four hundred times
in a minute, furnished with a number of stiff brushes. This generates
a current of air which scatters the fur and blows it out of the mouth
of the trunk, where floating in the air it is speedily drawn upon
the perforated cone, and evenly spread over the top and sides of the
same, in quantity enough for one hat-body in so many revolutions. The
discharging trunk is so adjusted that any desired quantity of fur can
be deposited on any particular portion of the cone. When the cone has
got the fur for one hat-body, the workman wraps over it a wet cloth and
slips a metallic cover over the whole, which he removes into a tank
of hot water. A new cone is immediately set in its place to receive
another coating of fur. The hot water into which it has been dipped
tends to make the mat more tenacious, which is next slipped off the
cone, taken to a table, gently worked by hand-rolling in a piece of
blanket, squeezed and pressed, and folded into a convenient shape and
sent to the regular hatter to be felted at the ordinary plank kettle.
The cost of hat-bodies is reduced, it is computed, by this process
as five or six to one of the old bowing system, and the rapidity of
production is as thirty to one.
[Illustration: Fig. 8.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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