A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair — John Shaqi
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
History
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
7 ozs. best backs of coney wool, and
6 ozs. of Saxony lamb's wool.
The coney is first well broken over with a light bow, upon the hurdle,
and then by means of the heavier wool bow, the well-carded Saxony is
intimately mixed with it. This thoroughly accomplished, the whole is to
be divided into two portions; the one a little heavier than the other,
which is laid upon the hurdle, and with the same wool bow, strung with
stouter cat-gut, the hatter disposes of the mixture in a perfectly even
flat form, of an oblong square, which when gathered by the hatter's
basket, measures 18 inches wide by 3 feet long. A cloth is then spread
over it, and the whole turned upside down; the sides and ends of the
cloth are lapped over, so that this bat as it is called is completely
enveloped. A stiff skin is now thrown over it, and pressed and rubbed
for some time in an even manner, to reduce its thickness. The skin
having been removed, the sheet with its bat is rolled and pressed still
more, then laid aside while the other half undergoes exactly the same
operation, but is made three inches shorter in length.
These two sheets, which are destined to form but one, are connected
thus. The shorter is first folded over upon itself, and the two ends
joined by overlapping with a proper inlayer of paper; then the larger
bat is laid upon this one, and the whole turned upside down, so that
the joinings of the two bats will be upon opposite sides of the sheet
of felt. After these joinings are carefully made, the would-be sheet
appears exactly like a lady's muff, and is again to be enveloped in the
cloth, for the hardening process, at the hot basin, where it receives
a partial steaming, rubbing, re-folding, &c., till finally it is
carried to the plank kettle, where the severest labor must be applied;
the object being to condense the materials of which it is made to the
utmost degree of tension. It is then cut open, dried, and receives
an application of a weak solution of size; when again dry it is well
pounced with pumice stone, and the edges cut straight, which finishes
a first class printers' sheet of felt, the size being 33 or 33-1/2
inches long by 12 inches wide. Sheets for _copper_ blocks or rollers
require a thickness of a quarter of an inch, and those for _wood_
three-sixteenths of an inch. Some prefer a sheet altogether of Saxony
_wool_.
Cloth Hats.
After the introduction of gutta-percha into the arts, and the
manufacture of it into thin sheeting, a new kind of hat was introduced,
made of gutta-percha cloth, and from the variety of shades, &c. seemed
for some time to supersede the soft low-crowned FELT article. But the
cupidity of some of the manufacturers destroyed the business almost
entirely when in its infancy, some say purposely, by making them so
very inferior and at the same time so perfect a counterfeit, that the
really good and perfectly made hat became universally distrusted, and
hence the result.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account