A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
History
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
By the chemical analysis of hair it is found to consist of nine
different substances: 1st, gelatine or animal matter, which constitutes
its greater part; 2d, a white concrete oil in small quantity; 3d,
another oil of a grayish-green color more abundant, these oils
comprising about one-fourth of the entire weight; 4th, a few particles
of oxide of manganese; 5th, iron, the state of which in the hair is
unknown; 6th, phosphate of lime; 7th, carbonate of lime in very
small quantity; 8th, silex in greater abundance; 9th, and lastly, a
considerable amount of sulphur--such is the constitution of all furs,
wools, hair, &c., most of which may be dissolved in pure water heated
to a temperature above 230° of Fahrenheit, by which it is partially
decomposed. Hair is likewise soluble in alkalies, with which it forms
soap. Chlorine gas immediately decomposes it, producing a viscid mass.
It is worthy of particular remark, that of all animal products, hair
is the one least liable to spontaneous change, evidence of which may
be found in the fact that the Peruvian, Mexican, and Brazilian mummy
hair is still perfect, and is supposed to be from 2500 to 3000 years
old, and stands the hygrometric test with equal firmness. From this we
should suppose the body or substance of hair and wool to be exceedingly
hard and solid, which is really the case, as no pressure has yet been
applied sufficiently powerful to entirely deprive wool of the water
with which it has been washed--the interstices between the fibres of
the assemblage never having been closed by the power applied, as the
water therein collected may still be drained off when the pressure is
removed.
Although hair is of a tubular construction, yet all varieties are
not of a completely cylindrical form; a curl is the result of all
flat-sided or oval hairs, the exceeding oval being the unfailing
characteristic of the negro race. A cross section of a hair, if
circular, denotes the long, soft, and lank fibre of a cold northern
animal; but if the cross section shows an extreme flat-sided hair, that
hair will be crisp and frizzled, and of a tropical extraction. Quite
a gradual change in the form of the fibre of hair is observed in all
animals as we ascend from the equator to the highest latitudes, other
things being equal.
It has long been a desideratum how to discriminate between the various
qualities of hatters' _fine_ furs, and no really reliable test has
yet been obtained, superior to the judgment of the human eye, the
fineness of fibre for the hatter being of most essential importance,
particularly that allotted for the flowing nap upon the outside of the
hat. Although the thickness of the fibre of the finer furs has never
been properly gauged, it will be a source of some satisfaction to know
that the diameter of the human hair varies from the 250th to the 600th
part of an inch, while the fibre of the coarsest wool is about the
500th and the finest about the 1500th part of an inch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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