A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
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A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
As has been said, felt may be made of any kind of animal fur, wool, or
hair, provided it be bent, crimped, or curled, for if straight as a
bristle it would work out of the mass as readily as into it, and lose
itself in the operator's hands.
All materials intended for felting must be cut from the pelt or skin,
and not pulled, for the obvious reason that a pulled hair invariably
brings with it its root, in the form of a button or bulb, which would
greatly impede its progressive motion in the act of working, as each
and every hair under the operation of felting bores into and amongst
the other filaments of the fur composing the mass, root end foremost, a
sharp point therefore is obtained by cutting. This rule is universally
and invariably adopted by all hat furriers.
Wool of any great length of staple, after being carded, is pressed, and
either clipped, cut, or chopped into shorter lengths, which facilitates
the felting operation, and improves the solidity of the felt that is
produced.[B]
The various materials most used in hat-making are the furs of the
beaver, the otter, the rabbit, the hare, a species of the muskrat,
a species of the monkey, a species of the seal, and a few others,
together with Saxony and Spanish wools and the hair of camels and
goats. Numerous as are these various names, most of the animals produce
five or six different qualities of stuff, from particular parts of the
same skin, varying greatly in price or value.
The finest furs all come from those animals that inhabit the coldest
climates, and the season of the year in which any of them are killed
greatly influences the quality of the fur; a summer skin of some of
these animals being comparatively valueless, however excellent it
might be in the winter season. And what is particularly worthy of the
hatter's attention is, that fur that has been kept one or two years,
after being cut from the skin, produces a better working, and a more
solid article of felt, than fur from a newly-killed animal. The lamina
of such fur seem to rise and erect themselves upon the stem of the hair
by being kept, which may account for its better felting quality. This
would appear to be confirmed by the well-known fact that the 5 lb. bags
in which old fur stuffs have been kept are generally burst open.
One or two properties peculiar to furs and wools may still be
mentioned, as, for instance, all felting, by whatever means
accomplished, necessitates either a damp or wet process with the aid
of heat, and the facility of thickening or solidifying is accelerated
by the application of soap to the material under the operation. Or the
water may be acidulated for the same purpose with a little sulphuric
acid, as either of these acts as a penetrating solvent upon the natural
oil of the animal which still remains between the stem and lamina or
scales of the hair, thus baring the barbed points of the crusty scales,
the better to catch and hold their grip upon each other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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