A treatise on the origin, progress, prevention, and cure of dry rot in timber : $b with remarks on the means of preserving wood from destruction by sea worms, beetles, ants, etc.Britton, Thomas Allen
Science
A treatise on the origin, progress, prevention, and cure of dry rot in timber : $b with remarks on the means of preserving wood from destruction by sea worms, beetles, ants, etc.
Britton, Thomas Allen
Dry-rot; Wood -- Preservation
Timber in contact with brickwork is in Suffolk and in some parts of
England covered with sheet lead to preserve it from the effects of the
damp mortar. Fungi will arise in mortar, if made with road-drift, and
water from stagnant ponds, &c., and it may be traced through the mortar
joints, and will thus appear on both sides of a wall. Mortar composed of
unwashed sand will generate fungi; sea sand, even if washed, should never
be used. It is considered that the system of grouting contributes to the
early decay of timber; wood bond timber for walls has been consequently
replaced by hoop iron bond. In Manchester wood bond is frequently used,
and is said to answer well, but the high temperature of the buildings may
be a preventive against the decay of timber, as the walls are soon dried.
The practice is a bad one.
When timber used as posts inserted in the ground is placed in the
inverted position to that in which it stood when growing, it is said
to be very much more durable than if placed in its natural or growing
position. This is easily accounted for in the valves of the sap vessels
of the growing timber opening upwards; but when that position is
inverted, the valves of the sap vessels become reversed in their action;
and, therefore, when timber is used as posts inserted in the ground, the
valves being so reversed prevent the ascent of moisture from the soil in
the wood. Mr. W. Howe relates an experiment made to test the comparative
durability of posts set as they grew. He says, “Sixteen years ago I set
six pairs of bar posts all split out of the butt end of the same white
oak log. One pair I set butts down; another pair, one butt down, the
other top down; the others top down. Four years ago those set butt down
were all rotted off, and had to be replaced by new ones. This summer I
had occasion to reset those that were set top down: I found them all
sound enough to reset. My experiments have convinced me that the best
way is to set them tops down.” Other instances might be given in favour
of placing posts in an inverted position in the ground. Posts will
sometimes decay, for the following reason: The ends are often sawn off
with a coarse implement and left spongy, with the longitudinal fibres
shaken or broken a considerable way within the extremity of the wood. In
this state the ends of the posts must be apt to absorb from the ground
the moisture, which, being retained, and speedily pervading the whole
internal surface, _especially if painted_, appears to cause decay.
With respect to the preservation of wooden fences, Mr. Cruikshank, of
Marcassie, gives in detail various experiments from which it appears
that--1st. When larch or pine wood is to be exposed to the weather, or
to be put in the ground, no bark should be left on. 2nd. When posts are
to be put in the ground, no earth should be put round them, but stones.
3rd. When a wooden fence is to be put up, a No. 4 or No. 5 wire should be
stretched in place of, or alongside the upper rail.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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