A treatise on the origin, progress, prevention, and cure of dry rot in timber : $b with remarks on the means of preserving wood from destruction by sea worms, beetles, ants, etc.Britton, Thomas Allen
Science
A treatise on the origin, progress, prevention, and cure of dry rot in timber : $b with remarks on the means of preserving wood from destruction by sea worms, beetles, ants, etc.
Britton, Thomas Allen
Dry-rot; Wood -- Preservation
The _first_ of these is the removal of the bark from the trunk and
principal branches of the tree. For, in oak trees, the bark is too
valuable to be lost; and as the best period for the timber is the worst
for the bark, an ingenious method has been long partially practised,
which not only secures the bark at the best season, but also materially
improves the timber. This method consists in taking the bark off the
standing tree early in the spring, and not felling it till after the
new foliage has put forth and died. This practice has been considered
of inestimable value; for by it the sap-wood is rendered as strong and
durable as the heart-wood; and in some particular instances experiments
have shown it to be four times as strong as other wood in all respects
similar, and grown on the same soil, but felled with the bark on and
dried in sheds. Buffon, Du Hamel, and, in fact, most naturalists, have
earnestly recommended the practice. Evelyn states, “To make excellent
boards, bark your trees in a fit season, and let them stand naked a full
year before felling.”
In regard to the time that should elapse between the removal of the bark
and the felling of a tree, a variety of opinions exist. It was the usual
custom of early architects to remove the bark in the spring, and fell the
trees during the succeeding winter. Later investigations seemed to have
proved that it is better to perform the work three or even four years in
advance, instead of one, although Tredgold appears to think one year too
long. Trees will, in most situations, continue to expand and leaf out for
several seasons after the bark has been removed. The sap remaining in the
wood gradually becomes hardened into woody substance, thereby closing
the sap vessels and making it more solid. As bark separates freely from
the wood in spring, while the sap is in motion, it should be taken off
at that period. When the above method is not adopted, it is well either
to pierce the trunk some time before felling to drain out the sap, or
immediately on its being felled to set it on end.
The _second_ suggestion is, to cut into and around the entire trunk of
the tree, near the roots, so that the sap may be discharged; for in this
manner it will be done more easily than it can be by evaporation after
the tree is felled. In addition to this, if it be permitted to run out
at the incision, a large portion of the new and fermentable matter will
pass out with it, which would remain in the wood if only such material
is removed as would pass off by evaporation. This cutting should be made
in the winter previous to the August in which the tree is to be felled;
and the incision should be made as deep into the heart-wood as possible
without inducing a premature fall of the tree.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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