A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Italy -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800
Pilgrimages to Loretto are not so frequent with foreigners, or with
Italians of fortune and distinction, as formerly, nineteen out of twenty
of those, who make this journey now, are poor people, who depend for
their maintenance on the charity they receive on the road. To those who
are of such a rank in life as precludes them from availing themselves
of the charitable institutions for the maintenance of pilgrims, such
journies are attended with expence and inconveniency; and I am informed,
that fathers and husbands, in moderate or confined circumstances, are
frequently brought to disagreeable dilemmas, by the rash vows of going
to Loretto, which their wives or daughters are apt to make on any
supposed deliverance from danger. To refuse, is considered, by the whole
neighbourhood, as cruel, and even impious; and to grant, is often highly
distressing, particularly to such husbands as, from affection, or any
other motive, do not choose that their wives should be long out of their
sight. But the poor, who are maintained during their whole journey, and
have nothing more than a bare maintenance to expect from their labour at
home, to them a journey to Loretto is a party of pleasure, as well as
devotion, and by much the most agreeable road they can take to heaven.
This being a year of jubilee, there is a far greater concourse of
pilgrims of all ranks here, at present, than is usual. We have seen a few
in their carriages, a greater number on horseback, or on mules; or, what
is still more common, on asses. Great numbers of females come in this
manner, with a male friend walking by them, as their guide and protector;
but the greatest number, of both sexes, are on foot. When we approached
near Loretto, the road was crowded with them: they generally set out
before sun-rise; and, having reposed themselves during the heat of the
day, continue their journey again in the evening. They sing their matins,
and their evening hymns, aloud. As many have fine voices and delicate
ears, those vocal concerts have a charming effect at a little distance.
During the stillness of the morning and the evening, we were serenaded
with this solemn religious music for a considerable part of the road.
The pilgrims on foot, as soon as they enter the suburbs, begin a hymn in
honour of the Virgin, which they continue till they reach the church. The
poorer sort are received into an hospital, where they have bed and board
for three days.
The only trade of Loretto consists of rosaries, crucifixes, little
Madonnas, Agnus Dei’s, and medals, which are manufactured here, and sold
to pilgrims. There are great numbers of shops full of these commodities,
some of them of a high price; but infinitely the greater part are adapted
to the purses of the buyers, and sold for a mere trifle. The evident
poverty of those manufacturers and traders, and of the inhabitants of
this town in general, is a sufficient proof that the reputation of our
Lady of Loretto is greatly on the decline.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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