A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Italy -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800
In the great church, which contains the Holy Chapel, are confessionals,
where the penitents from every country of Europe may be confessed in
their own language, priests being always in waiting for that purpose:
each of them has a long white rod in his hand, with which he touches the
heads of those to whom he thinks it proper to give absolution. They place
themselves on their knees, in groupes, around the confessional chair; and
when the Holy Father has touched their heads with the expiatory rod, they
retire, freed from the burden of their sins, and with renewed courage to
begin a fresh account.
In the spacious area before this church, there is an elegant marble
fountain, supplied with water from an adjoining hill, by an aqueduct. Few
even of the most inconsiderable towns of Italy are without the useful
ornament of a public fountain. The embellishments of sculpture and
architecture are employed, with great propriety, on such works, which
are continually in the people’s view; the air is refreshed, and the eye
delighted, by the streams of water they pour forth; a sight peculiarly
agreeable in a warm climate. In this area there is also a statue of
Sixtus V., in bronze. Over the portal of the church itself, is a statue
of the Virgin; and above the middle gate, is a Latin inscription,
importing, that within is the House of the Mother of God, in which the
Word was made flesh. The gates of the church are likewise of bronze,
embellished with basso relievos, of admirable workmanship; the subjects
taken partly from the Old, and partly from the New, Testament, and
divided into different compartments. As the gates of this church are shut
at noon, the pilgrims who arrive after that time can get no nearer the
Santa Casa than these gates, which are, by this means, sometimes exposed
to the first violence of that holy ardour which was designed for the
Chapel itself. All the sculpture upon the gates, which is within reach of
the mouths of those zealots, is, in some degree, effaced by their kisses.
The murder of Abel, by his brother, is upon a level with the lips of a
person of an ordinary size, when kneeling. Poor Abel has been always
unfortunate; had he been placed a foot higher, or lower, on the gate, he
might have remained there, in security, for ages; but, in the unlucky
place that the sculptor has put him, his whole body has been almost
entirely kissed away by the pilgrims; whilst Cain stands, untouched, in
his original altitude, frowning and fierce as ever.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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