A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Italy -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800
The Prince Guistiniani procured a place for us, at the Senator’s house
in the Capitol, from whence we might see the procession to the greatest
advantage. On arriving, we were surprised to find the main body of the
Palace, as well as the Palazzo dé Conservatori, and the Museum, which
form the two wings, all hung with crimson silk, laced with gold. The
bases and capitals of the pillars and pilasters, where the silk could
not be accurately applied, were gilt. Only imagine, what a figure
the Farnesian Hercules would make, dressed in a silk suit, like a
French petit-maitre. To cover the noble simplicity of Michael Angelo’s
architecture with such frippery by way of ornament, is, in my mind, a
piece of refinement equally laudable.
Throwing an eye on the Pantheon, and comparing it with the Campidoglio in
its present dress, the beauty and justness of the following lines seemed
more striking than ever.
Mark, how the dread Pantheon stands,
Amid the domes of modern hands,
Amid the toys of idle state,
How simply, how severely great!
We were led to a balcony, where a number of ladies of the first
distinction in Rome were assembled. There were no men excepting a very
few strangers; most part of the Roman noblemen have some function in the
procession. The instant of his Holiness’s departure from the Vatican,
was announced by a discharge of cannon from the castle of St. Angelo;
on the top of which, the standard of the church had been flying ever
since morning. We had a full view of the cavalcade, on its return from
the church, as it ascended to the Capitol. The officers of the Pope’s
horse guards were dressed in a style equally rich and becoming. It was
something between the Hungarian and Spanish dress. I do not know whether
the King of Prussia would approve of the great profusion of plumage they
wore in their hats; but it is picturesque, and showy qualities are the
most essential to the guards of his Holiness. The Swiss guards were, on
this occasion, dressed with less propriety; their uniforms were real
coats of mail, with iron helmets on their heads, as if they had been to
take the Capitol by storm, and expected a vigorous resistance. Their
appearance was strongly contrasted with that of the Roman Barons, who
were on horseback, without boots, and in full dress; each of them was
preceded by four pages, their hair hanging in regular ringlets to the
middle of their backs: they were followed by a number of servants in
rich liveries. Bishops and other ecclesiastics succeeded the Barons;
and then came the Cardinals on horseback, in their purple robes, which
covered every part of the horses, except the head. You may be sure that
the horses employed at such ceremonies are the gentlest that can be
found; for if they were at all unruly, they might not only injure the
surrounding crowd, but throw their Eminencies, who are not celebrated for
their skill in horsemanship. Last of all comes the Pope himself, mounted
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