A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Italy -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800
No church in Christendom is so much loaded, I had almost said disfigured,
with ornaments. The number of statues, withinside and without, is
prodigious; they are all of marble, and many of them finely wrought.
The greater part cannot be distinctly seen from below, and therefore
certainly have nothing to do above. Besides those which are of a size,
and in a situation to be distinguished from the street, there are great
numbers of smaller statues, like fairies peeping from every cornice, and
hid among the grotesque ornaments, which are here in vast profusion.
They must have cost much labour to the artists who formed them, and are
still a source of toil to strangers, who, in compliment to the person who
harangues on the beauties of this church, which he says is the eighth
wonder of the world, are obliged to ascend to the roof to have a nearer
view of them.
This vast fabric is not simply encrusted, which is not uncommon in Italy,
but intirely built of solid white marble, and supported by fifty columns,
said to be eighty-four feet high. The four pillars under the cupola, are
twenty-eight feet in circumference. By much the finest statue belonging
to it is that of St. Bartholomew. He appears flayed, with his skin flung
around his middle like a sash, and in the easiest and most degagé manner
imaginable. The muscles are well expressed; and the figure might be
placed with great propriety in the hall of an anatomist; but, exposed as
it is to the view of people of all professions, and of both sexes, it
excites more disgust and horror than admiration. Like those beggars who
uncover their sores in the street, the artist has destroyed the very
effect he meant to produce. This would have sufficiently evinced that the
statue was not the work of Praxitiles, without the inscription on the
pedestal.
NON ME PRAXITILES, SED MARCUS FINXIT AGRATI.
The inside of the choir is ornamented by some highly esteemed sculpture
in wood. From the roof hangs a case of crystal, surrounded by rays of
gilt metal, and inclosing a nail, said to be one of those by which our
Saviour was nailed to the cross. The treasury belonging to this church is
reckoned the richest in Italy, after that of Loretto. It is composed of
jewels, relics, and curiosities of various kinds; but what is esteemed
above all the rest, is a small portion of Aaron’s rod, which is carefully
preserved there.
The Ambrosian Library is said to be one of the most valuable collections
of books and manuscripts in Europe. It is open a certain number of hours
every day; and there are accommodations for those who come to read or
make extracts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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