A Yankee in Canada, with Anti-slavery and reform papers.Thoreau, Henry David
History
A Yankee in Canada, with Anti-slavery and reform papers.
Thoreau, Henry David
Brown, John, 1800-1859; Québec (Province) -- Description and travel; Slavery -- United States
After breakfast we proceeded to the fall, which was within half a mile,
and at this distance its rustling sound, like the wind among the leaves,
filled all the air. We were disappointed to find that we were in some
measure shut out from the west side of the fall by the private grounds
and fences of Patterson, who appropriates not only a part of the water
for his mill, but a still larger part of the prospect, so that we were
obliged to trespass. This gentleman’s mansion-house and grounds were
formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, father to Queen Victoria. It
appeared to me in bad taste for an individual, though he were the father
of Queen Victoria, to obtrude himself with his land titles, or at least
his fences, on so remarkable a natural phenomenon, which should, in
every sense, belong to mankind. Some falls should even be kept sacred
from the intrusion of mills and factories, as water privileges in
another than the millwright’s sense. This small river falls
perpendicularly nearly two hundred and fifty feet at one pitch. The St.
Lawrence falls only one hundred and sixty-four feet at Niagara. It is a
very simple and noble fall, and leaves nothing to be desired; but the
most that I could say of it would only have the force of one other
testimony to assure the reader that it is there. We looked directly down
on it from the point of a projecting rock, and saw far below us, on a
low promontory, the grass kept fresh and green by the perpetual drizzle,
looking like moss. The rock is a kind of slate, in the crevices of which
grew ferns and golden-rods. The prevailing trees on the shores were
spruce and arbor-vitæ,—the latter very large and now full of fruit,—also
aspens, alders, and the mountain-ash with its berries. Every emigrant
who arrives in this country by way of the St. Lawrence, as he opens a
point of the Isle of Orleans, sees the Montmorenci tumbling into the
Great River thus magnificently in a vast white sheet, making its
contribution with emphasis. Roberval’s pilot, Jean Alphonse, saw this
fall thus, and described it, in 1542. It is a splendid introduction to
the scenery of Quebec. Instead of an artificial fountain in its square,
Quebec has this magnificent natural waterfall to adorn one side of its
harbor. Within the mouth of the chasm below, which can be entered only
at ebb tide, we had a grand view at once of Quebec and of the fall. Kalm
says that the noise of the fall is sometimes heard at Quebec, about
eight miles distant, and is a sign of a northeast wind. The side of this
chasm, of soft and crumbling slate too steep to climb, was among the
memorable features of the scene. In the winter of 1829 the frozen spray
of the fall, descending on the ice of the St. Lawrence, made a hill one
hundred and twenty-six feet high. It is an annual phenomenon which some
think may help explain the formation of glaciers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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