Russia -- History -- Revolution, 1905-1907; Russia -- Politics and government -- 1894-1917; Russia -- Social conditions -- 1801-1917
The first inkling that I received of the fact that a revolution was
going on in Russia came to me in the following manner. We had crossed
the Urals and had only been travelling thirteen days. We had arrived at
Samara, when the attendant, who looked after the first-class carriage,
came into my compartment and heaved a deep sigh. I asked him what was
the matter. “We shan’t get further than Toula,” he said. “Why?” I asked.
“Because of the unpleasantnesses” (_niepriyat nosti_). I asked, “What
unpleasantnesses?” “There is a mutiny,” he said, “on the line.” We
passed the big station of Sisran and arrived at the small town of
Kouznetsk. There we were informed that the train could not go any
further because of the strike. Nobody realised the extent of the strike,
and we expected to go on in a few hours. By the evening the passengers
began to show some signs of restlessness. Most of them telegraphed to
various authorities. A petition was telegraphed to the Minister of Ways
and Communications, saying that an express train full of passengers,
overtired by a long and fatiguing journey, was waiting at Kouznetsk, and
asking him to be so good as to arrange for them to proceed further.
There was no answer to this telegram. The next day a sense of
resignation seemed to come over the company. Although every evening,
towards dinner-time, one heard innumerable complaints such as “only in
Russia could such a _bezobrazie_ (literally an ugliness, _i.e._, a
disgraceful thing) happen,” and one passenger suggested that Prince
Kilkoff’s portrait, which was hung in the dining-car, should be turned
face to the wall. The Polish student, who had accompanied the Americans
and made music for them, playing by ear any tune they whistled to him,
and consequently a great many tunes from the Gaiety repertoire, played
the piano with exaggerated facility and endless fioriture and runs. I
asked an American mechanic who was with the mining managers whether he
liked the music. He said he would like it if the “damned hell” were
knocked out of it, which was exactly my feeling. But on the second day
after our arrival my American friends left by road for Samara, to
proceed thence by water to St. Petersburg. The passengers spent the time
in exploring the town, which was somnolent and melancholy in the
extreme. Half of it was a typical Russian village built on a hill, a
mass of brown huts; the other half, on the plain, was like a village in
any country. The idle guards and railway officials sat on the steps of
the station-room whistling. Two more trains arrived: a sanitary train
and an ordinary slow passenger train.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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