A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain, Volume 2 (1777)Thicknesse, Philip
History
A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain, Volume 2 (1777)
Thicknesse, Philip
France -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
troublesome, and if so, he would instantly retire.--So the Frenchman,
when he says he would cut himself in four pieces to serve you, only
means to be very civil, and he will be so, if it does not put him to
any expence.
_Aix_ is a well built city; the principal street called the _Course_, is
very long, very broad, and shaded by stately trees; in the middle of it
are four or five fountains, constantly running, one of which is of very
hot water, at which man and beast are constantly drinking. The city
abounds with a great deal of good company, drawn to it from all parts of
Europe by the efficacy of the waters, and to examine its antiquities,
for it has in and about it many Greek as well as Roman monuments.
Some part of the country between _Aix_ and this populous city is very
beautiful, but near the town scarce any vegetation is seen; on all sides
high hills and broken rocks present themselves; and one wonders how a
city so large and so astonishingly populous is supported. When I first
approached the entrance gate, it opened a perspective view of the
_Course_, a street of great extent, where the heads of the people were
so thick together, that I concluded it was a FAIR day, and that the
whole country was collected together; but I found it was every day the
same. I saw a prodigious quantity of game and provisions of all kinds,
not only in the shops, but in the streets, and concluded it was not only
a cheap, but a plentiful country; but I soon found my mistake, it was
the evening before Lent commenced, and I could find no provisions of any
kind very easily afterwards, and every thing very dear. You may imagine
the price of provisions at _Marseilles_ when I tell you that they have
their poultry from _Lyons_; it is however a noble city, crouded with men
of all nations, walking in the streets in the proper habits of their
country. The harbour is the most secure sea-port in Europe, being
land-locked on all sides, except at a verry narrow entrance; and as
there is very little rise or fall of water, the vessels are always
afloat. Many of the galley slaves have little shops near the spot where
the galleys are moored, and appear happy and decently dressed; some of
them are rich, and make annual remittances to their friends. In the
_Hotel de Ville_ are two fine large pictures, which were taken lately
from the Jesuits' college; one represents the dreadful scenes which were
seen in the _Grand Course_ during the great plague at _Marseilles_; the
other, the same sad scene on the Quay, before the doors of the house in
which it now hangs. A person cannot look upon these pictures one minute
before he becomes enthralled in the woes which every way present
themselves. You see the good Bishop confessing the sick, the carts
carrying out the dead, children sucking at the breasts of their dead
mothers, wives and husbands bewailing, dead bodies lowering out of the
higher windows by cords, the slaves plundering, the Priests exhorting,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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