Textile fabrics are still produced, but the progress made in these is
not to be compared with the advances made in the south of Scotland,
where coal is cheap. Weaving was introduced at an early period by
Flemish settlers, who made coarse linens and woollens till the end
of the sixteenth century, when “grograms” and worsteds, broadcloth
and friezes were added. Provost Alexander Jaffray the elder in 1636
established a house of correction—the prototype of the modern
reformatory—where beggars and disorderly persons were employed in the
manufacture of broadcloths, kerseys and other stuffs. A record of this
novelty in discipline survives in the Aberdeen street called Correction
Wynd.
In 1703 a joint-stock company was formed for woollen manufactures
at Gordon’s Mills on the Don, where a fulling-mill had existed for
generations, and where the making of paper had been initiated a few
years earlier. The Gordon’s Mills developed the manufacture of cloths
of a higher quality, half-silk serges, damask and plush, and skilled
workmen were brought from France to guide and instruct the operatives.
To-day high-class tweeds are made at Grandholm, and such is the
reputation of these goods for quality and durability that in spite of
high tariffs they make their way into America, where they command a
large sale at prices more than double of the home prices.
In the olden days the cloth sold in the home markets was a product
of domestic industry. The farmers’ daughters spun the wool of their
own sheep into yarn, which was sent to county weavers to be made into
cloth. Aberdeenshire serge made in this way was sold at fairs and was
hawked about the county by travelling packmen.
The hosiery trade was worked on similar lines. The wool was converted
into worsted by rock and spindle, and the worsted was knitted into
stockings by the women and girls of the rural population. One man
employed as many as 400 knitters and spinners. In the latter half of
the eighteenth century this industry brought from £100,000 to £120,000
into Aberdeenshire every year. Stockings were made of such fineness
that they cost 20s. a pair and occasional rarities were sold at four
or five guineas. In 1771 twenty-two mercantile houses were engaged in
the export trade of these goods, which went chiefly to Holland. The
merchants attended the weekly markets and country fairs, where they
purchased the products of the knitters’ labour. Such work provided a
source of income to the rural population and was indirectly the means
of increasing the number of small holdings. These were multiplied
of set purpose to keep the industrious element in the population
within the county. The invention of the stocking-frame together with
the dislocation of trade due to the Napoleonic wars made the trade
unremunerative and it came to an end with the eighteenth century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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