About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, TimgadThomas-Stanford, Charles
History
About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, Timgad
Thomas-Stanford, Charles
Algeria -- Description and travel
So we played the pretty and seductive game of resemblances. Here in this
fierce African landscape we contrived to see Bratlandsdal, here Sundal,
here the smoothened rock-faces of Naerodalsosen. Lower down where a vast
amphitheatre of hills guarded the meeting of two waters we saw the
Pyrenees. But the while I was hugging to myself a secret study of which
my comrade recked nothing. Even as a man may travel by train, and mark a
country, and consider within himself how he would ride over it to
hounds;—so was I noting the pools and streams of the river, muddy as a
glacier-fed river may be in a hot July, and judging where the fish would
be like to lie, and how I should put the fly to them. A very pretty
pastime, but clouded by the knowledge that no fish that is a fish, not
even a wee trout, may live in these waters. They contain calcareous
salts, or something unpleasant, which no fish of the royal race will
stand. There are hopes of acclimatizing tench; but who can wax warm at
the prospect? Yet was this to look upon a real river, the finest river
(with all respect to the Nile and the Zambesi; I speak as an angler)
that I have seen in Africa; a fair succession of pool and stream,—of
pools running swiftly beneath steep banks and shelving shores, of
streams just steep enough to make the pools holding. The pity of it!
From end to end Africa has an air of being unfinished and ill-designed;
there is always something wanting to its completeness; in some ways it
is too big, in others too small; it lacks water, or it has too much; and
things are seldom what they seem,—when you descry a distant lake it is
generally the mirage; wherefore a salmon river without salmon falls
quite within the natural order of African things.
So on through the broadening valley, with glimpses of azure sea ahead,
and soaring mountains, clad with primeval forest, all around. The road,
well engineered,—that goes without saying,—is much cut up by the heavy
traffic to and from certain mining enterprises in the hills. One
iron-ore mine,—the property of an English company, I hear with national
pride,—on the opposite side of the valley has a little railway and a
little port of its own; and two vessels, hovering suspiciously in the
offing, are not corsairs, but intent on a lawful freight. But here, as
everywhere, the authorities are busy in making the road smooth for the
motor-car, and the repairers and a steam-roller are at work. The car is
not yet a familiar object to man and beast. A mule bearing a native
bolts at our approach, and unseats its rider. We call to the chauffeur
to stop. He replies, “Mais, ce n’est qu’un Khabyle”; in which I
recognize a common colonial note. We look round to see the mule caught
and the rider up again, and go on happily.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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