About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, TimgadThomas-Stanford, Charles
History
About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, Timgad
Thomas-Stanford, Charles
Algeria -- Description and travel
The long descent comes to an end at length, and at a point about
twenty-three miles short of Bougie we reach the sea. The coast-lands
here consist of a series of semicircular plains, divided by great spurs
which run northward from the main range, and form capes. Across these
flat and highly cultivated plains our road lies where it may with
Algerian directness, but rises to dizzy heights by zigzags to surmount
the precipitous headlands which once or twice bar its progress. The
contour of this variable and rocky coast is eminently picturesque, the
views of sea and mountain of infinite variety. And afar the dazzling
whiteness of Bougie stretching upwards from its harbour among the olive
groves invites us. The level lands appear to be of great fertility; amid
great fields of corn and vine pleasant and prosperous-looking country
houses stand, girt about with fruit trees,—figs, apricots and peaches.
In some places the cultivation is carried almost to high-water mark, in
others a sward of fine turf seems to meet the sand.
Bougie, rising on the steep hill-side behind its protecting cape, looks
almost southward, and its bay appears to it as a land-locked lake. On
the southern shore stand the majestic mountains through which we have
bored our way from Sétif, with plenty of snow on this, their northern
face, crowning their copious forests of cedar and pine. Few seaports
have such a romantic outlook. It cannot be doubted that this coast is
destined some day to be a second and grander Riviera, and if another
Lord Brougham sets to work to create another Cannes, it is perhaps in
the neighbourhood of Bougie that he will place it. Apart from its own
abounding attractions, it is surrounded east and south and west by
incomparable scenery. Its charms are already beginning to be known. It
is a meeting-place of excellent roads, and the motor-car has rendered it
easy of access. Its comfortable hotel is always full, and is making
haste to enlarge itself. Let Bougie start a casino and band, and it will
begin to have a season. And in my mind’s eye I can see golf-links along
the shore of the bay, _para thina thalasses_, where the sea-sand meets
the verdure.
There is something theatrical about Bougie’s scenery. Stand on the shore
in front of the old Saracen gateway and look upwards at the background
of the town rising tier on tier, a town of brilliant white houses gay
with the dazzling purple of the _bougainvillea_, with the bastions of an
apparently cardboard fort to the right, and a suggestion of ruined
castles to the left, and you may fancy that you are in the stalls at the
Opera, and that a chorus of fisher-girls will shortly appear and point
to a pirate in the offing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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