About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, Timgad — John Shaqi
About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, TimgadThomas-Stanford, Charles
History
About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, Timgad
Thomas-Stanford, Charles
Algeria -- Description and travel
Such, mingled with Frenchmen, Italians, Spaniards, Maltese, and a
sprinkling of almost every European race, are the numerous types of
diverse humanity which the streets of Algiers everywhere present. In so
rich a scene the artist will find fruitful sources of inspiration, both
of form and colour; the ethnologist will have scope for studying the
features and carriage of different races, and for tracing the effects of
their not infrequent intermixture; to the politician it will all give
furiously to think. During the last century or two a large portion of
the Mohammedan world has fallen under Western dominion. France, like
England, has acted on the Roman principle, _parcere subjectis et
debellare superbos_, but neither has succeeded in infusing the conquered
races with the ambition of citizenship, as Rome did. Their attitude at
best seems to be one of sullen acquiescence in the inevitable, at worst
that of a hunted beast who waits his opportunity to spring. And the most
incurious tourist will not escape a certain wonder at the strange and
varied inhabitants of a city so near his home that he may read his
Monday’s “Times” on Wednesday afternoon.
To outward appearance Algiers is a busy French town. But when we come to
probe below the surface we find that the Golden East, with its leisurely
and slipshod methods, holds us in fee. The mere sending of a common
telegram is no light matter. I desired to telegraph five words to an
inhabitant of the city of Funchal in the island of Madeira. I took the
despatch to a branch office at Mustapha, officered by female clerks. It
caused some commotion. The young women laid their heads together, pored
over several tattered volumes, and finally informed me, with a certain
touch of commiseration, that the charge was four francs and fifteen
centimes a word. Now as the charge from London is one shilling a word,
this was obviously too much. What visions of Madagascar or Macao they
had conjured up I know not; they are, I believe, both islands, both,
like Macedon, Monmouth and Madeira, have M’s in them, and both are
distant enough to justify some such charge. I tried to point out that
Madeira does not ride in such remote seas, but to no purpose; and
wearily I betook myself to the chief post office. This is a magnificent
building in the finest style of neo-Arab art, glorious within and
without. It is agreeable to find that the French authorities are now
erecting great buildings in the local style, instead of reproducing the
monotonous ugliness of the Third Empire. If only the Boulevard facing
the harbour could be so transformed, the view of the port would indeed
be worth looking at. In this resplendent Temple of Mercury one youthful
clerk is considered sufficient to receive the telegrams of Algiers. He
took my paper, counted the words backwards and forwards, and said
airily, “Un franc.” I inquired whether he meant for each word, or for
the whole. He replied for the whole. Now he was evidently erring on the
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