About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, Timgad — John Shaqi
About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, TimgadThomas-Stanford, Charles
History
About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, Timgad
Thomas-Stanford, Charles
Algeria -- Description and travel
Between Boufarik and Marengo the country is fairly well cultivated;
substantial farmhouses, surmounted by groves of eucalyptus trees, stand
amid great fields of vine and corn. It is difficult to realize that, in
spite of its long history, this is essentially a new country, far newer
than the Colonies of South Africa, newer than a good deal of Australia.
At Marengo we join the main road from Blidah to Cherchel and descend
rapidly by the side of the newly-constructed railway. From a
contemplation of the enterprise of modern France, we are taken back at a
bound to the works of ancient Rome by the appearance on a hill to the
left of a portion of the aqueduct of Cæsarea. At this point it spans a
lateral valley in a triple series of arches, rendered perhaps more
impressive by a breakage in the middle. Leaving the car we scramble up
by the side of a stream and reach the great watercourse itself. Passing
beneath its arches we ascend the valley a little, and turn to look down
on its immense proportions. Amid the rough mountain scrub we have passed
from all evidence of modern cultivation, and are alone with this mighty
fragment of the past. It is difficult to find a reason for the feeling,
but few of Rome’s monuments impart a fuller sense of her magnificence
than the aqueducts which survive at so many different points of her
Empire. They are a symbol perhaps of her relentless power over nature
and man, of her determination to have what she wanted at all cost.
Sometimes, as in the Campagna, it is the long lines of interminable
arches which impress us; here it is rather their soaring height. Many
modern peoples would have carried the open watercourse by a circuitous
cutting on the hill-side round the head of the little valley; such a
proceeding was alien to the directness of Rome.
“See distant mountains leave their valleys dry,
And o’er the proud arcade their tribute pour,
To lave imperial Rome.”
The city to whose fountains and baths the aqueduct brought copious
streams of fresh water from the hills has disappeared. A squalid little
port fills some of its site, and entombs its marbles, but the aqueduct,
situate too far from the habitations of subsequent man to serve his
purpose as a quarry, and too threatening with its mass to encourage any
hasty attempt at demolition, has survived.
A mile or two lower down are a few arches of a branch of the same
aqueduct; perhaps more picturesque in their greater ruin, but less
impressive in their situation and height. All around as we enter
Cherchel are evidences of its ancient glory. The fashioning of the
ground, the great squared stones which are built into the walls, the
marble columns lying about in the town square, and the huge masses of
shapeless brickwork on the shore prepare us for the collection of
statues and other objects gathered together in a well-arranged museum.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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