About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, TimgadThomas-Stanford, Charles
History
About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, Timgad
Thomas-Stanford, Charles
Algeria -- Description and travel
The suburb of Mustapha takes its name from the last Dey but three who
erected the palace now used as the official summer residence of the
Governor. The vast sums he expended on it excited the anger of the
janissaries, and led to his disgrace and death. There are many other
Arab villas now modernized; they are well described by the artist
Fromentin, a painter in words as on canvas: “To-day without exception
they belong to Europeans. So the deep mystery which veiled them has
vanished, and much of their charm has disappeared. The architecture of
these houses has no great meaning when applied to European uses. We must
therefore accept them for the pleasure of their exterior aspect, and
study them as the graceful monuments of an exiled civilization.
Inhabited by the people who built—I might say, dreamed—them, these
dwellings were a creation both of poetry and genius. This people knew
how to make prisons which were places of delight, and to cloister its
women in convents where they were unseen yet seeing. For the day, a
multitude of little apertures through stretching gardens of jasmine and
vines; for the night, the terraces;—what more malicious, and at the same
time more full of care for the distraction of the prisoners? The gardens
resemble those playthings which are designed for the amusement of the
Arab woman, that singular being whose life, long or short, is never
anything but childhood. You see there only little gravelled walks,
little rivulets in marble channels, where the water meanders in moving
arabesque designs. The baths, too, suggest the invention of a husband at
once a poet and a jealous lover. Imagine vast cisterns where the water
is not more than three feet in depth, flagged with the finest white
marble, and open through vaulted arches to a wide horizon. Not a tree
reaches this height; when you are seated in these aerial bathing-places
you see only sky and sea, and are seen only by the passing birds. We
have no understanding of the mysteries of such an existence. We walk
through the country to enjoy it; when we return it is to be indoors.
This secluded life near to an open window, this motionless existence
before so vast a space, this household luxury, this enervating climate
and radiant country, the infinite perspective of the sea—all this must
give birth to strange dreams, must throw the vital forces into disorder,
and mingle a sentiment beyond the power of words to describe with the
sorrows of captivity. But,” concludes our author, “ne me trompe-je pas
en prêtant des sensations très littéraires à des êtres qui assurément ne
les ont jamais eues?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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